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Wednesday, 1 December 2010

The Glen Love It



Thank goodness for double glazing!

My marker for winter drawing in is the need to turn on the central heating. Had it not been for good cavity wall insulation and thick, vacuous, see-through* panes of double-glazed glass, which daily provide me with a real-life version of East Enders as I gaze out on London life, I would have had the heaters blaring out weeks ago. But this week, with plummeting temperatures and snow falling all around, I finally succumbed to pushing the “on” button, to have my various cockles warmed.

Opening the airing cupboard to retrieve my selection of “big jumpers”, hidden away since the snow melted in March, I’m reminded of sunnier times in the year and a short film flicks through my mind, typically rose-tinted and jolly. But amongst the nostalgia are some genuine highlights, one of which is of a fabulous trip to Speyside, to the opening of the new still house at The Glenlivet.

Last night we held our first 'official' CaskStrength.net tasting, in association with The Glenlivet, which provided us with an opportunity to give our invited guests some winter memories of their own. The venue for this 'liquid alliance' was one of the lavishly decorated upstairs rooms at the well known London restaurant and jazz club Boisdales of Belgravia.

Awaking to a blanket of snow across London, the conditions for our tasting were the polar opposite (pun very much intended) of the sun-drenched Speyside trip back in June. However, our 20 hardy attendees were not to be deterred from the prospect of six whiskies from The Glenlivet range and we had just person one drop out, struggling to make his way from a snow-bound Oxfordshire countryside into the Big Smoke.

On the menu for the evening were some whiskies we’d not had the pleasure of trying before, with particular highlights being the oldest and the youngest in the line up; The Glenlivet 12 Year Old First Fill (travel retail only) and The Glenlivet 25 Year Old. The rest of the selection was as follows: 15 Year Old French Oak, Nadurra Triumph, 18 Year Old and a Mystery Whisky...... ooooohhhhh! (you gotta love audience participation!!)

The Mystery Whisky was in fact one that we have already reviewed, The Founders Reserve, but tonight was about providing our esteemed (and highly knowledgable) guests with an opportunity to share in our tastings and hopefully bank a “highlight of 2010”, as we did with our trip to Speyside earlier in the year. Thankfully, the lucky competition winners seemed to enjoy the night, with an eclectic mix of people, proving our long-held view that whisky is all about the spirit within the spirit, meeting new people and enjoying great company.


But we weren’t going to let our guests off scot-free (or Scotch free, even). Oh, no! Caskstrength.net is all about the work ethic and in this life, you don’t get anything for free... it was the job of the assembled group to help us tweet some tasting notes on each whisky, which we then sent flying out in to the digital ether. Not quite wikileaks, but it was jolly good fun and threw up some very interesting tasting notes (most noticeably “Gary Lineker”, but more on that later) which hopefully add an extra dimension to our thoughts on these drams, below.

The evening started with a scene-setting introduction from Phil Huckle, UK Brand Ambassador for The Glenlivet, as he expanded on the history of the distillery and the use of the term “Glenlivet”. So popular was whisky from The Glenlivet that distillers from the area would use the name Glenlivet solely for their own single malt, leading to a court case in the 1800’s where The Glenlivet was granted the right to be the only distillery to use the name Glenlivet in isolation, relegating its neighbours to the use of Glenlivet as an additional marque on their products.

As the snow tumbled down outside, it was time to warm ourselves with the first dram of the evening:

The Glenlivet - 12 Year Old First Fill – Travel Retail Only – 1ltr – 40% ABV

Nose: Great wafts of spiced cooking apple and ripe bananas, toasted pine nuts and clear apple juice.

Palate: Matured in first fill American Oak, this leads to a palate of fresh pine, those bananas again but this time more as banana bread, honey and white pear. A “juicy” mouth feel.

Finish: Medium to short, with a hint of spice, this is a session whisky and once opened, throw the cork far away as you won’t need it again!

Overall: Here are our thoughts from the tasting panel for the evening:Ripe bananas, coconut and toffee, vanilla, crème brulee and almond spice. The ripe bananas was a particular talking point and really stood out on the nose.

The second dram of the evening was the 15 Year Old French Oak. Matured in American Oak and finished in Limousin casks, more commonly used in the Cognac industry, this whisky highlighted the influence European Oak has on spirit, adding a greater weight, depth and additional complexity from the 12 Year Old First Fill. The tasting notes from our guests included "well-fed xmas cake, pre-fired xmas pudding, dates, caramel, panna cotta, nutmeg and brandy butter", which about sums up this whisky, at 40% ABV, perfectly. Give yourself a round of applause!

Next up was a whisky that we hold in high regard here at CaskStrength.net HQ. So much so, that it has made the final of our Best in Glass Award for this year (result to be announced on Dec 10th 2010).

The Glenlivet – Nadurra Triumph – 1991 – 48% (non chill filtered)

Just to save any confusion, there are 3 releases of Nadurra: The Triumph,bottled in March 2010 at 48%, a Duty Free edition at 43% and a cask strength (various ABV’s depending on batch) available in high street retailers.

Nose: Hot buttered popcorn is the first thing that flies out of the glass at you, backed with heather and sweet apple juice. A hint of grapefruit juice hits the back of the nose, which I’ve attributed to the higher ABV) and there is just a touch of red fruit right at the back (a tiny portion of this version of the Nadurra has spent time in European Oak, unlike the other two releases which are 100% ex-American Oak barrels).

Palate: Neat, this retains the hot buttered popcorn and the wheat and oak elements dance around like the perfect couple on your tongue, developing the red fruits over time, initially growing out of light apples, vanilla and honey. With water, liquorice emerges and a drying nature, increased wood activity, come out and a hint of ginger.

Finish: Short, gingerbread and spices. With water the finish is easier, less spices with a greater hint of baked apples.

Overall: here is what our panel thought "buttered popcorn, tropical fruits, ginger, sherries coconut, fruit salad chews, tang

Onwards we carried to the next dram, The Glenlivet 18 Year Old. A classic whisky which is always going to carry a weight of expectation with it, due to its popularity world-wide and was the whisky of the night which provided us with the best, most unusal tasting note of the evening... here is what the panel thought "pear drops, blackberry lockets, toffee, wholemeal toast with nutella, aniseed, treacle, orange peel, Gary Lineker"

Gary Lineker?”, we hear you cry! “WTF?”

The gent who supplied this note gave an explanation Well, it just does what you expect it to. 9 times out of 10, this will put the ball in the net.Fair point!

It’s nearly Christmas and the goodwill seems to extend to distillers and shops around this time too, as you can pick this whisky up in Waitrose for less than £30. In fact, £28.99 is their current retail for this. Bonkers.

As the evening drew to a close, we had two final whiskies to get through. As we’ve already done notes on The Founders Reserve (panel notes on Twitter "dusty coco, coffee, brandy butter, vanilla, dark choc orange, real liquorice, purple quality street, fig jam”), this just leaves the 25 Year Old to go:

The Glenlivet – 25 Year Old – 1985 – 43%

Nose: Everything you expect from an old whisky finished in Oloroso Sherry barrels; plums, rich Christmas pudding, old books and furniture polish, all topped off with walnuts and soaked raisins. A wonderfully rich and filling nose.

Palate: Classy, with cinnamon, ginger, rooibosh tea, nutmeg and fruit cake. Weighty mouth feel and a depth of flavour that surpasses the other drams for the evening. Exactly what an “old” whisky should do.

Finish: Slightly drying, sweet honey and Demerara sugar, with a hint of sweet coffee.

Overall: Here are the thoughts of the panel: “sweet cured bacon, stewed plums, boiled fruits, furniture polish, flat doc pepper, bonfire toffee, crab apple jelly" The final note there, crab apple jelly, got a rousing round of applause and proved one of the more popular tasting notes for the evening.

As the night drew to a close, with the snow still falling, there was just enough time to retire to Boisdale’s famous roof terrace for a cigar and a dram. Thank you to everyone who came along, braving some awful weather to spend the evening helping us taste some excellent drams. It was fantastic to finally meet some of you as well as to see some familiar faces from previous whisky events.

As they say in my part of South London, “Biguppayaself, Blud”.

*one could insert an “ex-girlfriend joke” here, but I’ll refrain after the stick I took from one ex’s friend over a similar opportunity not passed up, recently. I think her Christmas present this year will be reasonably easy: a pinch of salt

Tuesday, 30 November 2010

The BiG Awards 2010 shortlist is unveiled!!

Ok folks, the tension is mounting now as we get closer to our annual BiG awards, which celebrates the 10 best whiskies released this year.

This time, we asked you, the readers for your recommendations too- and you duly obliged, with hundreds of emails about your favourite releases of 2010. So, like they do on Crimewatch, we've gone through each email with a fine-toothed comb and have counted up how many matches there were with our own thoughts... and it seems like we're all roughly on the same page!!

So, without further ado, here are the nominees for the overall prize of Best in Glass 2010. We'll be judging each whisky in early December, with one winner being plucked from the bunch with a triumphant fanfare:

In no particular order:










You may also remember that we were running a little competition for 3 readers. Well, the lucky winner is Mike Aikman from Edinburgh. A box with something interesting will be winging its way to you shortly. We'll also pick out 2 runner up names when we've announced the overall winner of Best in Glass on the 10th December, so watch this space. Until then, congrats to all the whiskies above for being the cream of this year's best releases.


Friday, 26 November 2010

The Bitterest Pill...is sometimes the tastiest


What a week it's been so far. Not one to remember on many counts, that's for sure.

At Caskstrengh, Bobby, my faithful companion and wonderful cat was hit by a car.
Whilst the accident wasn't fatal, it shook me to my core and made me realise just how we have a natural instinct to protect the ones we dearly love, animals included.
Time will heal him, along with love, cuddles and lots of roast chicken dinners.

I am also in need of some healing too after such a shock to the system and it's times like these that I think back to the days gone by when there was a preparation for everything. Cure-All tonics, embrocations and tinctures to rid the body of Alopecia to Varicella-Zoster (Chickenpox...alright smart-arse...try finding an ailment beginning with Z...!)


Many of you may not know that cocktail bitters, those mysteriously pungent and aromatic potions in tiny bottles actually hark back to some of the original recipes used in these slightly misleading elixirs. Angostura Bitters, one of the most famous throughout history, was formally a recipe of Dr Siegert's tonic, used by the quack to treat pain in some of his patients. Whether they worked is a mystery, but people bought into them, big time.


There were so many false claims as to healthy properties and also erroneous ingredients - some, which actually did more harm than good. These included Snake Root, a fairly common bittering agent, which can cause renal failure and the frankly hilarious, Cocaine Toothdrops (a modern day marketing execs dream, in more ways than one)


Today the bitters market is becoming big business again. Some major, yet artisianal players are making waves with their formulations, some harking back to the yesteryear, ala Dr Adam Elmegirab's Boker's Bitters and our wonderfully affable German friends - The Bitter Truth, who make a sensational range of exciting new flavours, as well as variations on traditional recipes.

We also welcome the great Master Of Malt to the bitters arena- who... being... erm... Masters Of Malt, have decided to go a step further, by producing some very specially formulated bitters, married and matured for extra depth and richness in a little cask which previously held a 38 year old Glen Grant. Their premise is that the whisky aged bitters will add a perfect compliment of spiciness and aromatic zing to whisk(e)y based cocktails, such as a Manhattan, Rob Roy, Old Fashioned or Sour.

Ever ready and eager to try some out, a small but perfectly formed bottle arrived yesterday and being that the weekend has finally arrived and my soul is in some serious need of a restorative, I put them to the test...


Master Of Malt - Cask Aged Whisky Bitters - 1st Edition. 46.2%
'Contains Fruits, spices, 8 year old bourbon, overproof dark rum and vodka, matured in a cask which previously contained a 38 year old Glen Grant'

Nose: Oh my, what a heady elixir. Huge vanilla notes take the lead, followed by cardamon, cloves, cinnamon bark, zesty orange and warming spices.

Palate: A small drop on the tongue reveals, pepper, more cloves and cardamon, rich tobacco notes, dried fruits and a hint of aromatic, like star anise or licorice root.

Finish: The cloves linger and i'm left with a tingling sensation, akin to eating a really good, aged christmas pudding and smoking a Don Ramos Epicure no. 19 (a big ring gauged Honduran cigar, perfect for festive post-prandial relaxing)

I have just used this in my first Manhattan of the evening, using this, my favourite recipe:


50ml Pikesville White Label Straight Rye Whiskey
20ml Capano Antica Formula sweet vermouth
10ml Noilly Prat dry vermouth
5ml of Maraschino liqueur

3-4 dashes of MOM Cask-Aged Whisky bitters.

Stirred over ice in a boston shaker glass and served in a chilled coupette glass, with a twist of orange zest (expressed) and a Griottine marinated cherry as a garnish.

Words can only describe how this drink lifts the senses, explores the soul and comes out triumphantly shouting 'YOU ROCK!!'

I feel lighter, the weight of the world seemingly less crushing. I know what you're thinking, 'yeah right... all this from a Manhattan and some funky bitters'. Well try it. As a combination of flavours, this drink raises my spirits. Let it do the same for you. The bitters add another dimension, call it the 'seasoning'. Hats off Master Of Malt.

I shall wrap this post up now, before I try a whisky sour, the recipe of which you can read here.

As a postscript, Bobby has started eating and drinking again, seems a little less in pain and I would like to take the opportunity to ask each and every one of you to raise whatever glass you have in your hand this evening and say a few kind words for him. I know he would appreciate it, and so would I.

Thank you.
Neil





Monday, 22 November 2010

Brighton Rock (s)




As winter wraps its chilling cloak around us, a trip to the seaside probably isn't up there on everyone's to do lists. However last week, we were invited to Brighton's Hotel Du Vin, home to the south east's Scotch Malt Whisky Society rooms to sample several of their new bottlings.



The trip from London to Brighton was a fairly tortuous affair, with trees on the line, the wrong leaves, farting businessmen and the overpoweringly twee sound of Justin Bieber, piped loudly from a teenage iPod next to me. It's at times like this that my inner Basil Fawlty rises up. Like David Banner trying to resist the transition into the Hulk, I furiously fought back the urges to snip the offending iPod cable discreetly with nail scissors. Fortunately, We had a hot meal and several fabulous drams to look forward to, so Basil was banished and we soon pulled into a crisp and bracing Brighton night.



The hotel has been superbly renovated and features an immaculate bar, behind which, you'll find a plethora of great whiskies. But for SMWS members, the hotel features a private room for tastings and it was here that our fun began.

London SMWS Manager Joe McGirr was on hand with 5 new bottlings from their extensive range, including an absolutely divine Clynelish and a downright bizarre Penderyn...
Here's our pick from the current outturn:


26.68 - SMWS single cask bottling- 'Morph and Minty' - 18 years old- 52.9% - 150 bottles

Nose: Butterscotch, wax jackets, Refreshers sweets, a hit of blue cheese and musty church books. Yes- a heady but superb mix of extremely diverse aromas.

Palate: Perfumed and floral notes mix with cereals, some waxy honey, mint humbugs, lavender and creamy homemade fudge. Wonderfully fruity and rich.

Finish: A hint of saltiness creeps in at the end, but the floral notes and a classic waxiness develops and you're left with a very satisfied set of senses.

Overall: Another choice cask from a consistently brilliant highland distillery.

Next up... Is it a Cognac? An Armagnac? Calvados? No... it's Welsh...

OK, so we can't really keep the identity of this one a secret, but the sheer strangeness of this, the society's first bottling from Penderyn needs to be noted. 6 years in a very fresh port cask has 'influenced' the spirit beyond all recognition...


128.1 - SMWS single cask bottling- 'A String Quartet of Flavours' - 6 years old - 55.6% - 233 bottles

Nose: Huge notes of fruity but floral Cognac, reminiscent of a very feminine VSOP. Dig past these notes and you walk headlong into buttery apple sweetness, with a distinct Calvados slant. the colour is absolutely staggering- russet red/brown.

Palate: The fruit develops, with port dominating at first, some talc notes and butterscotch.

Finish: Highly different- some lemon zest notes but again a drying finish really similar to a decent well-aged Armagnac.

Overall: It's hard to say that this is a decent whisky, as in all honestly, it isn't like any whisky we've tried for a long time. The cask has dominated the spirit to such an extent, that it is very one dimensional. But it's a dimension that displays how the use of interesting European oak can influence a whisky and because of that- this is well worth seeking out.

A heavily sherried Laphroaig reared its head (29.91) - with lots of big BBQ pork notes on the nose, coupled with a woody, slightly biting and dry palate. Also, the peaty 'chalk' to the Laphroaig's 'cheese' - a very handsome and light Ardbeg (33.96), with citrus, light peat and vanilla, mixed with cream soda and pairing very well with the Hotel du Vin's Creme Brulee.
But our attention was focused on our final pic of the night - one from Cambeltown's duo of distilleries.


27.85 - SMWS single cask bottling- 'Manly and Penetrating' - 12 years old - 58.8% - 209 bottles

Nose: Slightly musty, notes of wet wood and a slight damp warehouses. Then toffee, peanut brittle, marshmallows, and toffee apples.

Palate: Sherbet fruits, port sweetness, fruit gums, a hint of coffee and sawdust.

Finish: The fruity notes lead into slightly musty wine notes, with a little waft of west coast peat.

Overall: A highly entertaining and enjoyable dram, highlighting further that the society can root out some real gems from around the world.

As the evening drew to a close, it was clear that the SMWS continue to knock out excellent bottlings quicker than South East Rail can get you from Brighton to London. And nearly always at a reasonable price to their members. The pick of the bunch from this lot was the 26.68 and we happily took a hip flask full as preparation for the train ride home.

Sunday, 21 November 2010

Let's All Meet Up In The Year 2000

Balblair is not a distillery we have reviewed before, nor is it one I am hugely familiar with. When I’ve popped in to my (very) local whisky dealer, The Whisky Exchange in Vinopolis, I’ve always marvelled at their beautiful packaging and I even sold a few bottles when helping them out in their Christmas rush last year , which seemed to go down very well with the punters. (This year I have installed a Batphone-esque help line to my flat for if their shop gets as crowded as it did last year) But my only real experience was sneaking a tipple from TWE’s sampling stock so I knew what I was flogging.

Imagine my delight when Mr Postman turns up one morning this week with a package. Too small to be a full bottle but too big to contain a sample, I tore the jiffy bag open to find what can only be described as a small metal lunchbox with a window in the lid, housing a miniature of the new Balblair 2000. A small press releases fell from what remained of the envelope informing me that this was the latest in Balblair’s Vintage Expressions.

Only a small distillery, Balblair knocks out around 1.3 million litres a year (so twice the size of Arran, but just under half the size of Glenfarclas) and only bottles in Vintages, which is a cracking idea. The other Vintages in their range are: 1979 (God’s own year...), 1989 and 1997. And all at very reasonable prices, it has to be said. (£85-odd for the 1979. You’d struggle to find an Indie bottling on anything from 1979 that cheap)

As I opened the metal box which held the miniature in place, there was a further piece of literature in side (or should I say “marketing”?), a fold out document to remind us exactly what happened in the year 2000, and I’ve scanned this in for your pleasure here:

Major points Balblair have chosen to focus on from 2000:

- The last Mini being produced at Longbridge. This was a signal of things to come for the Longbridge plant which closed in 2005, leaving more than 6,000 workers unemployed.

- The Millennium Dome opened and, as observed by the leaflet, closed a year later.

- The Queen Mum turned 100. She’s now dead.

- People had Millennium parties worldwide. I know of not one person who really, thoroughly enjoyed themselves that night. And technically they were celebrating in 1999.

- The Tate Modern Opened. Yes, now we’re flying! A true, stick-on positive from the year 2000.


All of this just leaves me wanting Balblair to release a 1939 bottling, with a leaflet featuring such highlights as:

- The outbreak of World War 2.

- Albert Einstein writing to President Roosevelt about developing the Atomic Bomb.

- Marvin Gaye was born.


Balbliar – 2000 – 1st release – 43%

Ex-Bourbon Oak Cask, £31.50 RRP, very pale in colour

Nose: Vanilla, green apple, pear drops and some lemon and lime notes. This is creamy and very indicative of 100% American oak barrels. A little weak and slightly too sweet for me.

Palate: Honey, heather and delicate white flowers; this gives sweetly to the palate like a dusted boiled sweet. The sweetness dissipates quickly to leave the juicy notes of pineapple juice and freshly squeezed apple juice behind.

Finish: a touch of honeysuckle, some more vanilla and custard notes, this time with lavender. White chocolate. Short.

Overall: I didn’t think I was going to like this as from the nose I thought it would be a little insipid and too weak in flavour, but it has a lot of positives to make this a decent whisky at a decent price. It’ll get hammered by those who love their sherried whisky, but it holds a good place if you like a sweet, vanilla and honey tone to your dram as it comes across much more like a delicate Lowland than a Highland beast. It wouldn’t make it into my top 5 whiskies under £35, but it might make it in to the top 15.


I think Inverhouse (who also own Old Pultney, anCnoc and Speyburn) should be applauded for the direction they are taking Balblair in. Vintage-only is a great way to platform this brand as a Premium Single Malt, but with price tags that certainly are not. I hope that this continues as the brand grows and that the quality of the liquid inside their bottles matches the high standards they have set themselves for image.