Going Down The Experimental Road

It was a late night at the blackboard for Joel.  

There are many parallels between the bourbon and Scotch industries, not least their traditionalism and an apparent willingness to hang onto their historical values, whether or not they remain relevant to a current new breed of drinker.  Tradition aside, both businesses have experienced hardship and the financial swings and roundabouts, which have surrounded the past century of trading.  Prohibition almost wiped out the bourbon business (from which, only a handful of brands truly survived) and the various distillery closures throughout Scotland (some famous names, some not-so-well-known) point to the fact that it is easy to predict growth, but almost fatal to listen solely to the statisions making the predictions.

Today, whisky is in rude health, where ever it is made and we have seen trends towards marketing the spirit towards new younger audiences, seemingly with great success.  The growth of flavoured whiskies (Red Stag, Jack Daniel's Honey) has caught the attention of the US drinker and there is clearly  room for someone to pick up the baton here in the UK with a similar Scotch whisky-related product.

Will the SWA like it?  Probably not.  Should we care?  Probably not - but remember,  the difference between sounding like an old fart and an inspiring raconteur is knowing which bits of your brand heritage to cling to and when one should jettison the dusty, tired and outdated bits.

A little while ago, I got to try some experimental cask releases from Buffalo Trace.  What struck me, was despite the bourbon industry being founded on such rigid pillars, there were some companies having a little bit of fun out there (albeit with hit-and-miss results)  but who retained the ability to stand up and admit when they went wrong.

This is the art of experimentalism.  Some people wouldn't dream of letting the general public have an intimate view on their R+D depts and would sooner shelve something which didn't quite work out before it got to the shelves, than actually face trial by fire from their customers.   Buffalo Trace, despite their tenure in the whiskey business, didn't seem to give a f**k. Some of their experiments are a huge success - one offs - to day that they 'did it'. Others were pretty poor and the line from the distillery was that they didn't work and were not hugely recommended.  Of course, it didn't stop them all selling out and becoming legendary bottlings!

Today I received a bottle of something in the post, which immediately got me thinking about this experimental collection -  but which hails from a lot closer to home than Frankfort, Kentucky.

Dewar's are an undoubted (if traditional) powerhouse when it comes to blended whiskies.  So it was all the more surprising that the bottle sat on my desk looked like a rather snappily-dressed lab room sample.

In fact, it turns out that it is, but Dewar House Experimental Batch A39 looks superb and I hope that should it end up being released, the actual whisky label, (and the bottle design)  ends up looking like this, as it really is a cracking piece of design.

The whisky in question is apparently a 17 year old blend, bottled at 58.9% and is apparently finished in sherry.  Other than the details of the bottle outturn, there is little else to report!

Let's dive into this experimental beast-of-a-blend...

Dewar's - Dewar_House Experimental Batch -  A39 - 58.9%

Nose: The first impression is absolutely sensational.  Big honeyed notes, some rich, woody sherry notes, soft fruit crumble,  light vanilla, milk chocolate and some rum-soaked raisins.  

Palate: Powerful and oily, with masses of spicy character - anise, cloves, dark chocolate and strong oloroso/PX notes.  It is lively at 58.9% so needs calming down with a dash of water. Then it really comes alive. Sweet vanilla, some burnt caramel, cooking apples, rich woody notes and a return of the spices - liquorice and cinnamon.  Lovely.

Finish: The dryness takes over, but you're left with notes of the cooking apple and a lengthy haul of spices.

Overall: A big whisky and a very nice looking bottling to boot.  I have no idea what this will evolve into, but I hope that they just put a seal around the neck and sell it like this.  It takes blended whisky into the connoisseurs market and spices things up a little.  Come on Scotland- let's shake things up a bit!!

"10 min dram with... Harlen Wheatley"

Exclusive time again folks!! Whilst on a "once-every-ten-years" trip to the UK Harlen gave us a fantastic insight into how the fabulous bourbons of Buffalo Trace were put together and this was a rare chance to ask him a few interesting questions on wood, desert island casks and just what its like to hold the title of 'Master Distiller'!

Over to you Harlen....

How would a regular day at the distillery start and end for Harlen Wheatley?

The day starts by assessing the operation and look for any problems or issues. Once the issues are cleared up then I directly go to planning the next moves and staying focused on the priorities. We currently have many projects and plans that have to be thought out and completed. I have a team of about 48 people that are doing everything from receiving raw ingredients to putting barrels away and withdrawing them. They are excellent professionals that do an awesome job completing the multitude of tasks throughout the day. We have a production lot that we must complete everyday. Once production is completed I wrap up thoughts with the supervisors & managers and call it day.

The title 'Master Distiller' gives you an almost 'enigmatic alchemists' image... how much of your distillation skill is down to an element of science and how much is down to instinct- and essentially, your senses?

The science is the real answer. You have to understand and manipulate the science to be able to get the output that you want. I have been at this distillery long enough for all those variables to be
instinctive however I do rely on my science knowledge for everything. I sometimes do scare myself by predicting problems before they happen based on sounds, time, etc...

What, in your experienced opinion, has been the pinnacle within your distilling career?

I will humbly say that that hasn't happened yet, however the distillery winning "distillery of the year" awards the last 4 yrs is a nice reward for all the people here that work so hard.

Is your production craft influenced by other areas of distillation, (like the Scotch malt whisky industry) for instance- the successful experiments of finishing spirit in different types of cask etc?

I would say it has some influence. We have discussed distilling single malt whiskey and aging it in our barrels. We have looked at their techniques for production like distillation, yeasting, enzymatic actions, etc. to see if we can improve our operation.

Are you managing to meet the demands for your bourbon in new markets? Has the Far East seen growth in your product sales?

We are managing it however it is a bit daunting at the moment because the demand is bigger in some areas than we have whiskey. We are closely monitoring the output and sales to match our inventories. The Far East is basically untapped at the moment for us. We have seen growth in the industry and we have to gear up if we want to have a big impact in that market.

The George T. Stagg is probably one of the finest spirits I have ever tried. Do you plan to introduce any new premium, small batch bourbons into the Buffalo Trace line?

Hey, we are BT. Anything could happen. :-)

We've found that whisky and indeed bourbon appreciation seems to be becoming a younger past time than perhaps a few years ago. Will this influence your approach to distillation and the tastes of younger drinkers?

We do consider our customers with every one of our products. We will continue to offer our current brands consistently without flavor changes however any new products are carefully selected based on the consumers.


Have you ever tasted a particular cask and wanted to run off to a desert island with it?

Yes, I have had several "sugar barrels". I tend to hold on to those in my "special rick".

How important is the climate in Kentucky to the maturation of your bourbon?

It may be one of the most important part of our maturation. We experience basically all types of weather which gives the bourbon excellent aging characteristics. It allows the proper breathing of the barrel which gives the bourbon its awesome flavor.

Has there ever been spirit from a rival that you wished you'd invented?

We have admired many of the new spirits out there, however there is plenty to go around and we are too busy to covet too much.

Finally, the 64,000 dollar question...your all time favourite bourbon??

Well, of course that's a trick question because it really does depend on the occasion. For an everyday drink at any occasion I love BT. For an around the camp-fire conversation piece I would pull out some Stagg. For an excellent mix drink or a mild sweet drink I would have a Weller 12 YO. If there isn't any bourbon around I would have a Rain and cranberry. I love it all really.

Re-tracing our steps...

A slight departure for us at Caskstrength.  We've covered some clearly astonishing whiskies over our short, but sweet career as bloggers - and even some slightly odd experiments (Bruichladdich beer anyone?) But for some reason, we've never covered a bourbon. Until now that is.  

Perhaps we're slightly snobbish - or just not really bothered, but neither Joel nor I felt we could get terribly excited about a few new bottles of bourbon to have a crack at.  Perhaps previous bad memories, or minor alcohol-related indescresions are to blame.  Like most, we've had our fair share of bog standard American sour-mash, swished around with a cheap, watery cola mix at the Dullsville Arse & Trumpet pub. But it took a trip to our friends, the Whisky Exchange and the visit from a truly visionary US fellow, Harlen Wheatley to totally change our palates and opinions.  

For those who don't know, Harlen lays claim to the title of 'Master Distiller' at the Buffalo Trace distillery in Kentucky.  On a very rare appearance to these shores, Harlen led a small group of privilaged tasters (luckily including a Caskstrengther) through the distillery's recent  6 expressions, teaching us a few eye opening distillation facts along the way.  

The Premise of distilling great bourbon is not wholly different to distilling great whisky. What does differ is the primary ingredients involved.  Buffalo Trace pride themselves on the expert combination of 3 grains- malted barley, rye and corn which go into the various mash tuns to produce differently flavoured bourbons.  According to Harlen, each grain gives a certain distinct flavour component to the distillate; a well rounded maltiness from the barley, sweetness from the corn and minty, peppery notes from the rye.  

So onwards to the tasting!

Buffalo Trace Bourbon:

90 proof /46%abv

Nose: Masses of immediate fruitiness; passion fruit, raisins and diced apple all mix with a very heady aroma of vanilla, chocolate covered fudge and honey.  what follows is a surprising smokiness combining with cinnamon and spice, as the alcohol prickles through.

Palate: More sweetness, tempered with charred wood from the casks. beautiful mouth feel with more fudge and cinnamon.  Small hints of leather and tobacco also come through on the finish.

Finish:  Different as to be expected from that of a malt- shorter notes of pepper and spice but there's also a longer, lingering mustiness and more leather.

Overall:  Having only tasted a handful of good bourbons in the past, I would say that my palate has been re-awakened to this often disappointing drink. Buffalo Trace has certainly surprised me, as to its complexity and sheer depth of flavour.  I would urge any bourbon virgins to try this first and discover the wealth of hidden treats at the bottom of your glass. At around £20 it's also great value for money.

Eagle Rare 10 Year Old:

 90 proof /45%abv

On to round two and we're on slightly familiar ground here.  Eagle Rare is a limited 'single barrel' bottling, which forms part of the distillery's 'Antique collection'.  Sounds like we're in malt whisky territory then, with this the 10 year old edition. (a 17 yo is also available in even more limited supply) 

Nose: Cinnamon, cloves with wisps of ripe vanilla pods immediately hit you following onto a burst of citrus sherbet and buttery candy.

Palate:  A really pleasing licorice flavour coats the tongue with lovely fresh fruit compote (especially strawberry and blackberry) coming through afterwards. Further hints of leather, tobacco leaf, vanilla and red wine.  an excellent balance.

Finish:  This older bourbon has a much drier finish than the Buffalo Trace but there are equal hints of  vanilla, then salty popcorn which round off this splendid expression.

Overall: Again, for a  a sub £30 drink, this really is worth seeking out. It has a slightly classier feel than the Buffalo Trace, but the care and passion of a great bourbon runs through both expressions.

Rock Hill Farm:

50%abv

Our third tasting and another single barrel bourbon.  Rock Hill Farm is another small batch release  from Buffalo Trace, this time bottled at 8 years old. 

Nose: Spirity, with less fruit than the previous tastings.  Big bold vanilla and cereal notes are the dominant features here, rich and buttery, but with less subtlety than the Eagle Rare.

Palate: More of that smooth butteriness with more hints of old leather and bonfire toffee.  Lighter hints of fragrant fruit (papaya?) emerge as you delve in further.

Finish:  A bitter chocloate hit on the finish, with a slight mintiness and a cigar-like aftertaste.

Overall:  After the two initial tastings, I was slightly less enamoured by this expression. Sure there's a quality about it but it lacked the overall complexity of the Eagle Rare and the lovely rounded fruitness of the Buffalo Trace.  At nearly £50, it certainly doesn't match up to the value of the others either. Not a miss, but then, not entirely a hit with Caskstrength either. 

Sazerac Straight Rye:

6 yo 45% abv

Wow- a taste departure!! and a definite first for Caskstrength.  This is certainly the first Rye tasted here and it becomes obvious just how much the difference in grain has a profound effect on the taste.  

Nose: Loads of white pepper, mint and cloves combine to give this an unmistakable menthol-like aroma.  Very dry, with further hints of old oak and cedarwood on the second nosing.

Palate: A big cereal hit gets your attention immediately, then a creamy, classic 'rye bread' smoothness with hints of pickle and even spicy pastrami.  A slightly salty soda water note comes through at the end. 

Finish: More drying oak and aromatic cloves give this one of the most distinct finishes we've tasted.

Overall:  A completely different grain and such opposing flavours make this stand apart from the other tasting notes we prepared.  It is an enjoyable experience, but flawed.  I would doubt this has any chance of catching on the same way as bourbon in the UK but one can imagine the flawless cocktails it could complement, so for another sub £30 bottle, this would make a unique aquision to your cabinet.

WL Weller 

12 yo Straight Bourbon 45% abv

So into the home straight now and another different approach from Buffalo Trace. WL Weller is another aged bourbon from the distillery and uses a 4th grain, this time wheat in place of the rye to add a delicate smokiness into the mix.

Nose:  Surprising smoke immediately grabs your attention.  Almost single malt like, it intertwines with wholegrain toast, ripe fruits and sweet hickory BBQ sauce.

Palate: A complex blend of more summer fruits, sherry, raisins and chocolate.  A really moreish mouth feel.

Finish: Dry oak but leads to a real sweetness, like the Buffalo Trace in the death.  Very refined and hugely drinkable.

Overall:  Once again,  more innovation from this excellent distillery.  The use of wheat as a grain is not unique (Woodford Reserve produce a wheat'ed bourbon too) but the complexity of flavour, coupled with the smoky edge really works and makes this an extremely good bourbon.

So our final treat of the night, and it's a proper firecracker of a finish- 'Ladies and Gentleman- my I introduce you to our headlining act of the night: The one, the only.... Mr George, T, Stagggggggggggggg'!!!

(cue frenzied applause and the sound of young bourbon fans fainting in expectation!!) 

George T Stagg

Single Barrel Bourbon, aged 15 years. 72.4% abv!!

Ok, we've all tried some pretty big hitting whiskies over the years. Any one remember the Caol Ila 8 yo unpeated; bottled at 64.9% or the Glenmorangie 100 proof?  They're basically brutish and blunt in their approach to the palate, desensitizing it with the sheer power of alcohol. Undrinkable in our opinion, unless you muzzle them with a good measure of water.  But who wants to remove the bite from the guard dog?? Buy a Labrador and be happy with its generally placid nature.

In Darwinian terminology, the George T Stagg could possibly be the missing hybrid genus between the biggest, meanest Rottweiler- full of snarling ferocity and the prettiest pedigree Spaniel, serving every playful whim you could ever think of... 

Nose: Root beer and freshly cut carrots mixed with sweet floral passion fruit, toasted oak, parma violets and lightly perfumed linen sheets (the kind you imagine Keira Knightley waking up with, on a crisp summer morning) (ok, enough perving Ridley, back to the booze! ED) In a word - divine.  How they create such gentle combinations of flavour at this strength, is extraordinary. 

Palate:  Again, more of that floral passion fruit, but we're fully back in bourbon country with twists of tobacco, thick dark chocolate and espresso coffee.  Not the slightest interference or bitterness of alcohol at all. 

Finish:  More smoke/ cocoa on the finish and a really pleasant warming mouth feel as the alcohol dissipates-  you're left with nothing but smiles and good cheer!!

Overall: An undisputed  'true great' in the world of bourbon.  Buffalo Trace only make a tiny amount of this and if you're lucky enough to find one,  grab it with both hands and don't even think about reaching for the water jug.  

All in all,  an unforgettable night of great chat, history, science and of course, great drinking. Caskstrength acquired a bottle of WL Weller, which in our opinion was the pound-for-pound winner, but pitched against the Stagg- any great single malt whisky, let alone bourbon would struggle to get gain the advantage.  

Watch this space for an exclusive interview with Harlen further down the line hopefully!

Neil