Timeless (and Ageless) Japanese Delights: Suntory's new Distiller's Reserve Yamazaki & Hakushu

Wow, what an extraordinary month it has been for whisky chatter so far. Any more of this excitement and we'll have to take a short nap somewhere quiet and friendly -  Rum or Armagnac perhaps.  ;-) 

First up and a large contingent of the online whisky community got its knickers unnecessarily in a twist about the unknown future of Scotch whisky and the terrifying looming spectre of No Age Statement whiskies. We'd like to issue a zen-like calming call to all those bloggers concerned: Take a deep breath and pour yourself something nice (maybe even N.A.S?)...whisky isn't broken quite just yet - we promise. 

Right on cue, Diageo, (seemingly the target for much abuse this past week especially) unveil a new range of Mortlach expressions AND a monumental stepping stone in the history of Brora. Two fairly hefty (and polarising) statements in the malt whisky world, by any stretch of the imagination. Whilst we'll reserve our judgment call on the 'Mortlach Scenario' (which sounds very much like a new Dan Brown novel) until we have actually tasted the liquid (makes sense, does it not chaps?) we can at least be thankful that there is plenty of excellent whisky left out there and the prospect of the industry moving forward yet again in the eyes of the every day consumer looks extremely positive in our view. 

Then the largest players in the world of Japanese whisky Suntory announces two brand new No Age Statement expressions, which will radically change the landscape of the international appetite for its whisky. 

It seems, as if No Age Statement-itus is catching folks... Better run and take cover. 

Stirred 13-and-a-half times?
A classic Highball

Suntory's latest brace of releases focus on the specific styles of their two malt distilleries, Yamazaki and Hakushu. The former, widely regarded as the very first Japanese whisky distillery celebrated its 90th anniversary last year and has long been a firm favourite here, for pushing the boundaries of flavour and versatility in whisky. 

In the 12 year old expression of both distilleries, Suntory have defined, in our opinion, (with the addition of Nikka's From The Barrel) the delicate simplicity of the Mizuwari (or Highball with sparkling water) -  a drink so perfect in its construction that lengthy tomes have been written about the correct number of times one should stir the mixture of whisky, ice and supremely clear spring water - Suntory reckoning that 13-and-a-half times is the pinnacle of excellence.  

So why bring out two new whiskies- The Distiller's Reserve range - especially lacking in age statements?

Well, like every whisk(e)y company in the world, times are a'changing and global demand for aged Japanese stock has meant that there is precious little out there - especially in Europe. With such an unprecedented focus on world whisky, Suntory have been smart enough to create two distillery defining expressions that not only deliver big on flavour, but also won't cost the earth, given the inevitable price rises of the 10, 12 and 18 year old expressions.  

Suntory Chef Blender Shinji Fukuyo pointing
out his predecessors  

At a launch last week in central London, both these new Japanese expressions were formally unveiled, after a highly successful introduction in the domestic market. We were lucky enough to join Shinji Fukuyo, Chief Blender and General Manager of the Whisky Blending and Planning Department at Suntory; the man responsible for creating the new range. Introducing the whiskies, Mr Fukuyo revealed that one of his daily responsibilities is to sample 300 different casks from the Suntory inventory, so with so many parameters to play with, putting these whiskies together was never going to be easy.  

And it wasn't.  

'After my first experiment, I was scalded by my boss,' he jokingly revealed, as we began to delve into the core component parts of both whiskies. But without a doubt, his second attempts have squarely hit the mark, both whiskies delivering what could accurately be described as the core flavours of each distillery: Yamazaki, known for its rich, well-rounded red berry fruit and lighter citrus zest - and Hakushu dialling in a little smokiness alongside a malty core, surrounded by soft orchard fruit and a little spice.   

Cask samples

Both expressions are formed by careful use of different cask styles, which Suntory have explored individually in their own dedicated bottlings. In the Yamazaki Distiller's Reserve, we were treated to cask samples from a Mizunara oak cask (a strain of oak unique to the Far East) which delivers a totally original and highly flavoursome spice note, reminiscent of Japanese incense. Alongside this, a sample from a cask of sherry matured whisky aged for around 20 years, complete with its big, bold and robust earthy dryness.  But an interesting additional Bordeaux wine cask finished whisky hinted at where much of the well-rounded red berry fruits and additional dryness in the new expression comes from.  

The Hakushu Distiller's Reserve comes from a totally different flavour profile altogether. Samples of lightly peated and heavily peated Hakushu were tried alongside a frankly astonishing sample of first fill bourbon cask Hakushu - if you happen to chance on a bottle of this style of Hakushu (there are a few floating around at good indie retailers) grab it - the tropical fruit notes will change your perception of whisky making forever.  (in fact see our review of this expression here)

So individually, each cask style delivers a distinct 'colour' to the overall picture. But what are they like when combined together?  'Stupendous'  is one word we would happily use.  

Yamazaki -  Distiller's Reserve -  43%  - No Age Statement - RRP under £40

Nose: A lightness hits first, with subtle vanilla and lemon zest, leading into fresh strawberries, a little milk chocolate and some golden syrup. There is also an emerging spicy/incense note, which develops with the addition of water.

Palate: The fruit becomes more intense, with fresh fleshy white peaches, a hint of raspberry, a dryer oaky note, vanilla essence and a twist of lemon zest.  It is vibrant and youthful, but still full of fabulous character.

Finish: Sweeter fruity notes linger, with an overall tannic background.

Overall: A superb start. This encompasses all the hallmarks of the 12 year old Yamazaki, but leads it into a new fresher styling.  Very clever whisky making and a steal for the retail price.

Hakushu Distiller's Reserve -  43% - No Age Statement - RRP under £40

Nose: Wonderfully fruity with soft pears, a touch of green apple peel, fresh mint, vanilla, a slight damp mossiness and a waft of very fragrant smoke -  enough to drive the heart of the distillery character but not too in-your-face for those who find peat too much of a distraction.

Palate: A lighter fruit develops first with fresh honeydew melon, sweet vanilla, the floral smoke mixing with a charred herbaceous note. With water, it really develops, the fruit starting to integrate wonderfully with the smoke.

Finish: The smoke is left on the palate, with a subtle fruitiness and a hint of oak.

Overall: Another fantastically balanced whisky. Hard to pick out a favourite here, as both whiskies deliver so much character within their 'house' styles.  We would recommend both of these side-by-side - especially if you're planning to have a go at your very own entry into the Mizuwari/Highball phenomenon!

Make no mistake: Suntory have undoubtedly released two game-changing No Age Statement whiskies here.

Anyone still left ranting, please form an orderly queue.

Expect to see both these whiskies at either Master Of Malt or Whisky Exchange soon.  

 

The Caped Crusader. Bains Cape Mountain Whisky

AGGGHHHH! My lower lumbar region!!

Ain't life a funny one. A little while back, I was lifting a rather heavy speaker cabinet up several flights of stairs, without paying any attention to the proper way to carry things, as sported here in this instructional video. Of course, I ended up buggering up my back, which took a few months to get better.  I was told by a back specialist that it would probably never be 100% again and only this week the swine decided to give way again. Alas, it meant that agonisingly, I had to cancel my attendance at the Spirit of Speyside festival this weekend, which was deeply upsetting.  

But despite not being able to move about without the use of a sturdy malacca cane, today I am smiling. Why? Not because of the codeine tablets (which I must wholeheartedly advise NEVER to mix with alcohol) but because here in London, it is the sunniest weather I have seen all year.  

Blissful azure blue skies are predicted all weekend and that can only mean one thing.  

Outdoor sunshine drinking.  

My usual exploits would be with an array of different gins, a highball made from Japanese whisky or perhaps even a few glasses of little light and floral Scapa/Rosebank with a barbecue.  But this year, such is our enthusiasm for world whiskies, I've plumped for what is turning out to be one of the standout spirits of the year round here: Bains Cape Mountain Whisky.  

Bains Cape is one of the many high flying masterpieces from South African distiller James Sedgwick.  Under the watchful eye of distillery master Andy Watts, James Sedgwick have crept up on the whisky world, tapped it on the shoulder and whilst it looks the other way, snuck past, poured a dram of something sensational and left everyone in absolute wonderment.  

For several years running their Three Ships brand has won aplenty at the World Whisky Awards (where Joel and I are judges) and recently, Bains Cape has picked up the coveted Best Grain Whisky in the World award.  

As we suggested back at the turn of the new year in our predictions, the rise of South African whisky is rather timely. Not only is the nation one of the largest and most hearty consumers of whisky in the world, but James Sedgwick is now ripe for export and their range of whiskies represents the changing ways in which the consumer enjoys the spirit.  

Bains Cape Mountain Whisky (named after Andrew Geddes Bain, who pioneered the awe-inspiring Bainskloof Pass) is a grain whisky with all the zest-filled glory you would expect it to be. Column distilled, then matured in first fill American Oak, the whisky is ultimately bottled at five years old.  It's young, vibrant and fresh, leading me to seek out its very own serve. 

With something as robust in flavour as a Yamazaki or Nikka From The Barrel perfectly suiting a highball, I wanted to find a serve that flatters the sweet grain note in Bains Cape and extenuates the delicate vanilla custard note.   

A white wine glass full of ice is my first port of call.  Next up, 40ml of Bains Cape and then a thin slice of expressed lemon zest.  Look for the most chubby lemon you can find (ok, I did splash out here on a nice Amalfi one from foodie mecca, Borough Market) give the whole thing a stir and you have quite frankly THE drink of the summer.  As the Bains Cape dilutes, it sweetens, mixing effortlessly with the zest.  It's simple, but gloriously refreshing.  There's still enough of a bite to give you a thrill along the way and anyone who enjoys a gin and tonic will be falling over themselves to thank you for introducing this to them.  Couple this with one of Theo Randall's Amalfi lemon tarts and you have a perfect appetiser for an impending sun-drenched weekend.  

Bains Cape Mountain Whisky -  43% - 75cl

Nose: Classic grain freshness, with an explosion of citrus zest, vanilla pods, burnt caramel and marzipan/sugar coated almonds. With water, it becomes sweeter, with some white flower notes and a touch of fresh nectarine. Stunningly sunny. 

Palate: A hint of bite and then we're into a mouth coating wash of sweet vanilla, coconut milk, candied fruit and lemon zest.  It's surprisingly rich and has a huge bourbon influence. 

Finish: Short, with sweetened tea notes, vanilla shortbread and marzipan. 

Overall: I'm going to stake a big claim on this one... This could well prove to be the whisky of the year in our eyes, at least the summer. That much is a given.  

Yamazaki Whisky: Wood You Believe It?

Not so much 'Norwegian Wood' as 'Japanese Wood'

When you walk in to a room, there is a lot to take in. The furniture, the carpet, the colours on the walls. Is there any art hanging up and if so, what does it add to the room; what does it say about the owners? How is the room laid out, and for what purpose?

However, when we walk in to a room, we don't usually run through this check-list of points. Not consciously, anyway.

But a room is given life, personality and character by the items in it and the way it has been dressed and arranged.

Unless you go out and buy a single cask, every bottle of whisky you buy has been blended, be it from a mixture of grain and malts from different distilleries into what we would traditionally define as a 'blended whisky', or those which carry the moniker of 'single malt' which are also blended together, just using malts from one distillery.

Every so often as drinks writers, we are invited to try 'deconstructions' of both blends and single malts. Fascinating to write about, these occasions give a real insight in to the make up of certain whiskies.

Conversations with the Master Blender reveal interesting nuggets as to the flavour profile of the overall mix (percentages of first fill sherry, to refill bourbon, etc.) but these geeky facts may not excite everyone. Personally, I don't want an explanation of how an aeroplane works before getting on it; I just want to have a great customer experience with my flight. In the same way, most people don't give two hoots as to the make-up of their blended or single malt whisky; they just want it to taste good.

However, some of the whiskies which go in to making up a standard release of a single malt are pretty bloody good. So much so, that the Japanese distillers Suntory have decided to release a series of whiskies which, we are told, make up the constituent parts of their Yamazaki 12 Year Old.

This series will be made up of four release, two already on the market. These editions showcase the whisky matured in individual styles of casks: a puncheon, a bourbon barrel and a heavy sherry barrel (all named, cunningly, 'Bourbon', 'Puncheon' and 'Sherry') will be available for around £70. The jewel in the crown is the Mizunara release, an edition matured in casks made from the famous Japanese variety of oak. This will weigh in around the £250 price point.

These four release are all markedly different, with the puncheon and bourbon barrel showing off light and delicate whisky, the sherry barrel giving excellent, heavily sherried hooch which, for the money, seems absurdly good. The wild-card player in the squad is the Japanese oak release:

Yamazaki - Mizunara (480 litre barrel) - NAS - 48% abv

Nose: a big hit of dried apricots, figs, toasted almonds (almond croissant), marzipan, light and aromatic spices.

Palate: the initial hit is of toasted tobacco leaf, over-ripe banana, which develops into banana bread and ever such a delicate hint of smoke.

Finish: heavy butterscotch, tropical fruits of mango and passion fruit, all finished nicely with delicate pear drops.

Overall: This is a whisky full of wonderful character and bold statements. Delicious and intriguing, this is well worth a try.

These individual bottlings may well be excellent in their own right (and there isn't a ringer in the flight), but the really interesting conclusion was trying the Yamazaki 12.

A whisky which we feel is underrated, the flavours of cooking apples, cinnamon, vanilla and flapjacks left us in no doubt that, once again, the quality of whisky coming out of Japan is of the highest order.

These whiskies have not just been put together, they have been expertly constructed by masters of liquid Feng Shui to create a room with personality, character and flavour.

Kampai!

Japaneasy Rider - Karuizawa and Chichibu whisky hits the UK again

For some reason I still get excited at foreign crisps.

"What on earth are you on about, Harrison?" I hear you cry. 

Well, whenever I'm abroad I like to try out the unusual crisp brands and flavours which are often unique to that part of the world. Returning from a recent road trip to Maltstock in the Netherlands, both our car and its passengers were in need of refuelling so we stopped at a petrol station on the French / Belgium boarder to load up on carbs. Us, not the car. That had petrol put in to it. Obviously.

The forecourt shop was like an adventure playground of snacks; sweets with weird names, packets of crisps with odd cartoon characters on them and, best of all for a motorway petrol station... discount beer! Who sells beer to drivers? Or passengers even. Anyway, needless to say the car was overflowing with wonderful and unusual items for our drive back to Calais.

The crisp, along with the sweet and the chocolate bar, is product which is made all over the world, so it shouldn't be as exciting as it is, when we see versions from other countries when travelling. But somehow, it really is exciting.

The same rings true for me and Japanese whisky. The Japanese have every right to make single malts and blends. They have an excellent back story with the almost soap opera style tales of Shinjiro Torii and Masataka Taketsuru, a wonderfully rich environment in which to mature their spirit and an attention to detail which would leave Professor Brian Cox dumbfounded. But yet, whenever I see a new product from a Japanese producer, I'm as excited as a my childhood-self in a foreign sweetshop (Hollywood chewing gum anyone?).

And so it was that with great joy we learnt that those wonderful people at Number One Drinks were to be releasing some new Japanese whiskies in to the UK (and wider) markets.

First up was a new release from Chichibu, their 'The Floor Malted' edition which will have around 8,800 bottles with somewhere in the region of 3,500 for export. This whisky is wonderfully light and delicate (even at 50.5% abv) and comes with aromas of toasted pine nuts, clear apple juice and lemon meringue pie while the palate gives excellent lemon and lime zest underpinned with an earthy tone. Very well constructed and worth a look if you like a lighter style of whisky.

Not usually known for being subtle, the now dearly departed distillery of Karuizawa was up next with four, yes four, interesting releases on of which is a single cask from 1960, but more on that at a later date.

The three main releases which are going to be hitting your local stores soon (if you're in the UK) are a 1984 single cask, a 1983 single cask and a no age statement malt. As you would expect from Karuizawa, the two single casks are heavily sherried monsters of undoubted quality. Our pick was the 1983, which will see just 120 bottles make their way to The Whisky Exchange in the UK.

Karuizawa - 1983 - Cask #7576 - Noh Edition - 564 bottles worldwide - 57.2% abv

Nose: Coffee and dark chocolate rise with energy from the glass, backed quickly by black cherry, a hint of mint and some meaty tones. Well brewed black tea provides some spices and dryness to the aroma and pecan pie gives nutty sweetness.

Palate: The palate has a huge hit of highly reduced red summer fruits, with autumnal bonfire elements and some treacle toffee.

Finish: The finish is hints of pulled pork and BBQ beef brisket but with some sweetness to boot.

Overall: Just simply super. To the point where I have a bottle on order. Gets my vote and, more importantly, my money!

Interestingly, there will be a new entery level price whisky from Karuizawa in the very near future. The Spirit of Asama is a new vatting of Karuizawa that will be availiable in different markets, at different strengths and with slightly different falvour profiles. Already availiable in France and Sweden, the UK version (which looks stunning) will be sold via The Whisky Exchange and will set you back around £40 or so. We have tried the French version (Raspberry jam with hints of kiwi and gooseberry fool) and can attest that it is a much lighter style of Karuizawa than one would normally be used to, but we will wait for provide full tasting notes on the UK version when that hits the shops.

The First Of Many

2011 has seen the debut of some extraordinary whiskies; from established favourites (Ardbeg Alligator) re-discovered classics (MacKinlay's 'Shackleton') and coming of age gems (Bruichladdich 10 year old)

2011 has also seen the birth of one or 2 dogs, but on the whole, it's more than refreshing to see just how many well received whiskies are now out on the market.

The Japanese whisky world can also give itself a hearty slap on the back too. Thanks to the tenacity of The Number One Drinks Company, scores of priceless Karuizawa casks have been rescued, which will now see the light of day they so richly deserve. It's also a superbly exciting time for new Japanese distilleries. Ichiro Akuto, founder of the Hanyu Card Series and the widely regarded saviour of this lost classic distillery has reached the pivotal moment, which he has been waiting for, for the past 3 years; the birth of his very first Chichibu single malt.

Continuing his success, Ichiro Akuto began distillation at the brand new Chichibu distillery in 2008, which can be found about 80km to the North West of Tokyo. Presently using a mixture of imported malt from Germany and England, Akuto-san aims to locally source his raw materials for the future, including Japanese peat. The wooden wash backs he currently uses are manufactured from Japanese oak, so a distinctly home-grown theme is emerging.

To date, Chichibu has released 2 editions of Malt Spirit, (a 14-month old double-matured bottling & a heavily peated 3-month old) both of which has been highly commended by the international whisky community. Now Ichiro's first 3 year old single malt- triumphantly titled 'Chichibu The First' has arrived... and the great news is that it's absolutely superb.

Chichibu - The First - Japanese Single Malt Whisky -distilled 2008 - bottled 2011 -61.8%

Nose: 3 years old? How can it be this complex?? Honey, light floral notes of honeysuckle, sweet peas, mix beautifully with vanilla notes, white pepper and milk chocolate, to give this a dusty, but wonderfully rounded aroma.

Palate: Again, the mouthfeel of this whisky defies its youth. Lemon grass notes, fresh limes and coconut milk take hold of the palate first, followed up with lashings of sweet vanilla, marshmallows and apricots, before ascending into some more highly perfumed notes. For a whisky of 61.8% it is amazingly delicate. Adding water certainly brings out the vanilla notes, but this is perfectly drinkable at cask strength.

Finish: Lingering notes of vanilla, some light oak notes and dried apricots give this first real Chichibu some lengthy complexity, way beyond its years.

Overall: Absolutely inspired whisky making, from a man, who is in our opinion, a shining light in the world of Japanese whisky - and for that matter whisky, wherever it is made. A triumphant first bottling and hopefully the first of many!

Join Us For A Very Special Tasting

Hello all, we're sure that like us, you were shocked and deeply saddened to see the devastation in Japan in the wake of the earthquake and resulting Tsunami. There are a number of really worthwhile charity organisations that you can donate to- including the Spirit Of Unity bottling, released in conjunction with some of Scotland's leading independent craft distillers and spearheaded by the Arran distillery. If you can grab a bottle of this, we urge you to do so- £59.99 + p&p and available from Royal Mile Whiskies and Loch Fyne Whiskies.

Caskstrength have teamed up with The Japan Society for a very special tasting of Japanese whisky at one of London's most luxurious private member's club, Home House on Monday 18th April.

Joel & myself will be showcasing 5 sensational whiskies- Ichiro's Malt -Mizunara Oak Cask, Yamazaki 12yo (with a twist!) Hakushu Heavily Peated, Hakushu 12yo and Hibiki 17yo. In addition, there will be authentic Japanese cuisine provided, courtesy of Tsuru, musical accompaniment in a 50's style from crooner sensation Gary Driscoll, plus a raffle, containing some other cracking Japanese malts and assorted goodies.

Tickets are £25 (with all the proceeds going to charity) and spaces strictly limited to 40 places. They can be purchased directly from the Japan Society's website, or by emailing

events@playforjapan.com

for more information, click on the flyer below:

Hope to see you there!!

N & J

x

Beauty Is In The Eye Of The Beholder

If you come over to my house, you’ll not only see the aforementioned art hanging on the walls, but you’ll find a fair few objects adorning my sideboards and shelves. Some artefacts I consider beautiful; take for instance my vintage Ricard jug. One of the most beautiful objects, found for mere pence in a local charity shop. And some, memorable; a full Oxford United subbeuteo team from the mid-1990’s, which take me right back to certain moments of my youth.

One new addition to my mantelpiece as of last week is an item that, for me, fulfils two main roles:

The first is utter beauty. We’ve lauded the Japanese on this site before for their fantastic bottles. Take the squared off, stubby Nikka From The Barrel. Not only is the contents stunning, but so is the casing. And then there is the utilitarian, simplicity of the Karuizawa bottlings (from No.1 Drinks). Wax dipped, with the most stunning, simple labels and boxes I have come across. It’s not just a whisky; it’s art. And this new addition is no expectation.

The second, is that of a reminder. For the bottle in question is indeed a Japanese whisky. Yoichi, to be precise. Prompted by the appalling recent disaster in Japan, I wanted to show some support so, along with donating some money to the cause (which you can also do here) I bought myself a bottle that I have wanted to try for a while now. Not only do you get a wonderful, beautiful item but every time I glance at it, glistening away in my living room prompts me to fire up a prayer for the people of Japan, for their future and for a speedy recovery.

On to the whisky itself: I don’t know much about it. In fact, I don’t really know anything about it, aside from the fact it is made at the Yoichi Distillery, based on the Northern Island of Hokkaido which opened in 1934, and that it is 43% ABV. Oh, and a No Age Statement. Aside from that, na-da. All the details, except for the distillery and the ABV on the bottle are written in Japanese. Good job the bottle is do damn pretty... let’s have a dram of this stuff, then...

Yoichi – White Label – NAS – 43% ABV – 500ml

Nose: A lovely level of peat smoke wafts from the glass. We’ve become so used to the “who can make the most peated whisky” competition on Islay, that to encounter a dram with a good hit of smoke, bold but not too over powering, is a real joy. Behind the smoke is some youthful, spirit notes with hint of blackcurrant and liquorice and some gin-style tones.

Palate: The initial hit is youthful; this really isn’t an old base whisky (I’d guess 5 – 7 years old) and the result is a little aggressive but once it subsides, the peat takes over for the middle section and this is joined by the blackcurrants from the nose. Some wood spices develop with time and bbq notes at the death.

Finish: The smoke wafts through with some cardamom, fennel and honey notes. A hint of sweet coffee right at the death.

Overall: At around about £30 a bottle, this is a very solid investment. Just to give some contexts, I’ve now got a glass of Laphroaig Quarter Cask poured next to it. In comparison, the QC has a bigger hit of peat, but is also rounder and more balanced in its wood tones. Not the best comparison in the world, granted, but it’s what is in my cabinet to use.

And there in, lies the key. This bottle of Yoichi is not in my cabinet; it is sat alongside some of my most treasure possessions on my mantelpiece because it is a beautiful piece of design. Unlike the Nikka From The Barrel, the contents doesn't match up quite as well to the aesthetic, but it is well worth a try and, in the same moment, remind yourself to hold the country of Japan in your heart for just a moment; to hope for their future, for their people, for their well-being.

Reasonably Priced Dram Of The Week No. 4

Hey folks, continuing on our quest for cheap malt perfection, this little baby caught our eye recently and is well worth trying out. Nikka All Malt is essentially a blend of Japanese whisky using malt from the Yoichi distillery and a proportion of malt and Coffey Still whisky from Miyagikyou. At around £25, this is a great introduction into the plethora of great Japanese whiskies out there. Stay tuned for our forthcoming post on Tokyo bars and the wonder that is the hand-carved Ice Ball...

Turning Japanese

Last Friday, Caskstrength.net was asked by the lovely folks at The Japan Society to put together a little tasting for a group of keen whisky drinkers. The event was to coincide with the opening of a brand new restaurant in Bishopsgate called Tsuru, which specialises in excellent, modern Japanese cuisine. Both Joel and I had to get our thinking caps on and pair up a whisky menu, which would hopefully compliment the wonderful range of dishes restaurant owner Emma and her head chef had dreamed up, whilst not undermining or overpowering the subtle flavours that Japanese food is famous for.

Across the 5 courses which were served we went with the following:

Vegetable Tempura (Aubegine and Asparagus)
(Paired with Yamazaki 12 yo)

Chicken Yakitori (Marinated chicken, served on skewers with a sweet and spicy sauce)
(Paired with Yoichi 12 yo)

Cornish Crab California Roll Sushi
(Paired with Miyagikyou 10 yo)

Japanese pickle Maki- inari tofu and sweetened Shiitake
(Paired with Hibiki blended 12 yo)

Toasted Seame Mochi Ice
(Paired with Yamazaki 18yo)

The fascinating thing about Japanese whisky is the incredibly unique flavour profile- no matter what age, type of maturation or indeed the inherent style (either peated or non-peated) it always has that 'quintessential' taste of Japan. There are Scotch whiskies that when tasted blind, could lead you to believe they're from another continent entirely, but you really know you're in for something different altogether with Japanese whisky.

After apologising for some of our pronunciation errors, the pairing went down a storm, with the sweet vegetable and creamy batter of the tempura going very well with the light, sharp and fruity Yamazaki 12 and the subtle smokiness of the Yoichi bringing out the lightly grilled style of the chicken dish.

However... our favourite (and I think we can speak for many of the guests in attendance...) was the pairing of Yamazaki 18yo and the Mochi. If, like us, you'd never come across this intriguing dessert before, try nipping down to your nearest Japanese food store- they are a taste sensation!! The dry, but rich fruity flavour of the Yamazaki 18 complimented this sweet (and vaguely rice pudding flavoured) ice cream dish perfectly and we were soon down to our last drop of whisky and Mochi's in no time at all!!


One of the guests menu's with scores

All in all, a superb night. For those of you who have in their collections a Japanese whisky, be it a light and summery Yamazaki, Miyagikyou or Hibiki, a peated Hakushu or Yoichi or even a flavour bomb like Karuizawa - give 'em a try with some food- you'll find the combination of flavours absolutely irresistable!

For more info on the Japan Society click here:

For more info on the excellent Tsuru restaurant click here:

Mental Oriental Malt Mission - Part 1

The T**T in the Ceremonial Hat....

Wow, what a summer this is shaping up to be. Apologies for our poor posting frequency, but there's a really good reason for our slap dash behaviour. As part of a working holiday, Caskstrength had the opportunity to spend a wonderful 9 days in Japan, which turned out to be a truly eye opening experience.... our story starts here....

After a short stop over in Paris my flight to Osaka was ready for take off. I don't think i've felt anticipation like this about any other visit -Japan represents something of an enigma to most people- a deeply traditional culture with an unfathomable language barrier for westerners, so part of me expected to be totally overwhelmed in some crazy 'Lost In Translation' styled moment.

The next 11 hours were quietly spent learning a few key phrases (Hello, thank you, 'whisky please', 'this Ardbeg tastes amazing' etc...) and soon we touched down in Osaka.

As the 2nd city in Japan after Tokyo, people had unfairly compared it to Birmingham but my fears were totally dispelled on arriving into a bustling city centre and checking into the hotel. The service is truly impeccable and there was a running theme over the whole trip that the length of the complimentary shoe horn indicated the quality of hotel. (most of which were at least 2 foot long!)

'Lovely action this one....'

The Hotel was also situated next to a huge shopping centre, which sold as you can imagine...literally everything from motorised toilet seats, swords and interestingly, a collection of pet Hermit crabs with upgradeable painted shells. If only I could find somewhere to smuggle one through customs I thought...

After some essential tourist viewing at the stunning Museum of History, we fancied a little coffee to perk us up.

Enter the 'Silky Black Boss'- an unbelievably strong chilled and bottled beverage, straight from a street vending machine- more on the genius of this concept later...so with eyes now like saucers it was time to head into town in search of fine dining and of course some whisky.

Now a word of caution for anyone travelling to Japan in the near future- DO YOUR RESEARCH!! I had forgotten to print off maps to get to some specific places. Sadly, one of the whisky bars, Rogin's Tavern was lost in the misty streets forever, so we managed to locate a couple of tiny bars, almost like living rooms full of whisky which were the next best thing.

The best one, Bar Courage, was located not far from our hotel and catered for only 8 guests! ~So with a quick hello, we squeezed in and ordered some excellent whisky. Mrs Caskstrength had until this point not looked forward to the idea of 'whisky bars' purely for the reason that she disliked whisky (we're the original 'Odd Couple') but all that was about to change when she discovered the Yamazaki 12 yo -Misuari style- basically whisky made into a refreshing long drink with super-chilled mineral water. (bang goes my collection now eh....) I plumped for the following:

Ichiro's Card series- Ace of Diamonds- Distilled 1986- bottled 2008- 56.4% - 70cl

Nose: Meaty, rice crackers, malt and soft fudge, florals (violets)

Palate: Parma violets, sherbet, lemon zest, menthol, some gin like botanicals, sweet milk chocolate and licorice into finish.

Finish: Long developed, medicinal notes and lots of licorice. Floral and toffee notes at end.

Overall: Very pleasing. Another great card in the deck....

We finished up with a couple of tasty Islays (me, a Lagavulin 16 yo and Mrs Caskstrength, a Laphroaig Quarter Cask, Misuari style.

An eventful night was only made better by the discovery of 2 things: the wonderful night view across a hugely vibrant city and.... wait for it..... WHISKY IN A CAN.....

Yes, you heard it here first, the smart folks at Suntory have upped the ante on whisky innovation with the introduction of the ready made Highball- whisky and soda IN A CAN!!
Genius.

More adventures to follow, with some Highball fuelled fun in Kyoto and some truly 'Lost In Translation' moments in Tokyo, as Mrs Caskstrength gets more than she bargained for in the Misuari stakes....

Nature/Nurture- The Japanese way

Two days away from Christmas and fortunately, our spending spree is complete (save for that trip to the appalling 'Uniqlo' to purchase some garish looking 'Heat Tec' under-garments for my niece...nice...)

2008 has been a tough year for most people, but let's smile, turn our back on ill-feeling/ the 'recession' and embrace 2009 like a welcome hug from a loved one... now is certainly not the time for crying into first class drams!

The last month or so has given us at Caskstrength time to reflect on just what a spectacular year it has been for whisky. Some sensational releases all over the world - many included in our own 'Best in Glass' awards. In the final part of our Japanese whisky month, we've got another couple of crackers for you- a tasty 80's vintage from the house of Kariuzawa and the some newborn spirit distilled at the brand new Chichibu.

following on from the recent trio of great Kariuzawa single casks comes number 3397- distilled in 1998 and bottled last year. will this one round off a perfect year for the now closed distillery? let's see...

Karuizawa Distillery - Cask 3397 - Distilled 1998 - Bottled 2007 - 59.8% -

Nose: The classic mix we've come to associate with aged Karuizawa is immediately apparent- mustiness, old books, forest floors, slightly burnt sugar and a Vermouth'y aromatic note. Give it a little time and a light fruitiness (stewed rhubarb) emerges, and a musky but vegetive rounding off an extremely pleasant and welcoming aroma. With a little water, the musky note develops into something more meaty, with almost hints of roast lamb.

Palate: Ooh... super sweetness, like a very milky mocha with about 10 teaspoons of rich demerera sugar. The sort of thing you covet on your regular visit to the local cafe, but end up coming out with a curdled and overpriced smootie. As with the Karuizawa 1971, this is strong stuff at nearly 60% but oh, so drinkable. Lovely sherbet notes come through as it enters the finishing straight.

Finish: Drying oak, less depth and length than the prize winning 1971, but hints of that sweetness and an aromatic, almost bamboo shoot freshness to it.

Overall: Another corker from this majestic distillery. Sadly closed now, but as our interview with Marcin Miller recently observed, there are still a large number of casks just waiting to be discovered. We'll be at the front of the queue, rest assured.

Next up- The first born spirit, from the virginal Chichibu distillery... doesn't this seem strangely fitting, given the time of year??!!

Chichibu - Ichiro's Malt - Cask 126 - distilled and bottled mid 2008- 62%

Nose: Cor! as diametrically opposite to the Karuizawa above as you could get... Feinty, sweet, candifloss, like a rich caramel ice cream sundae, topped with crushed nuts. Dig deeper and you'll start to notice a slight comparison with the older Japanese single malts - a mossy tang and almost juniper freshness.

Palate: HUGE cereal hits you here- and I mean HUGE- like a classy Muesli. Honey covered oats, big, juicy dried fruits and malty goodness. Pour this on your morning breakfast for the ultimate AM zing... (note- please don't even contemplate this- not even if you buy that stupidly expensive GM-free 'Rude Health Muesli' from Sainsburys... Sensible Ed.) At this age, there really isn't anything else in the mix, but it promises to something very, very exciting indeed.

Finish: More cereal and a spirity freshness, as you'd hope for from a quality new-make. I enjoyed this in the same way I did the first time Caskstrength experienced Kilchoman's new- make, or the Bruichladdich X4+1 albeit without the huge, fresh swathe of peat.

Overall: Keep watching this distillery. Ichiro Akuto is a proven master of distillation, with a background spanning 21 generations of supreme skill and innovation from sake to single malt. We look forward to tasting this after some time in a quality cask....