The music business is littered
with acts which have changed their name at some stage, to avoid confusion with
other, likeminded creatives. Be it a simple hyphen added (in the case of UK
indie band Long-View), a location specific addendum (in the case of The London Suede) or a total surname change (take a stand Cheryl Cole), the act you see on
stage on hear on record will be the same talented* artist as they were before.
Because as consumers, we’re
easily confused. Or so the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) would have you believe. Recently
they changed their labelling regulations to make sure that each and every
bottle of whisky you buy is clearly identifiable as to where it was made. Sort
of.
For years now, bottlers have been
buying single malts (or blending whiskies) and selling them under names akin to
mythical distilleries; the sort of bottle you’d see on the shelf of your local
supermarket maybe, with a watercolour of an anonymous country estate in the
background.
It was deemed by the SWA that
this could be confusing to consumers who might think they’re getting a single
malt from an actual, real life distillery (which they are, if it says ‘single
malt’ on the label) but when trying to visit Glen Narnia, might find that the place
name on the label of their favourite bottle doesn’t really exist.
Anyway, one of the excellent
independent bottles who chose to adjust its name to come in to line with the
recent change in regulations, is Port Askaig (or Port Askaig Harbour as it became
known). Thankfully back to its original
moniker, the name was chosen to mirror a rough estimation of where the liquid in
these releases apparently comes from (I’ll save you looking it up: Caol Ila), taking it's name after Islay's lesser known, much more northerly, port.
However, with a cryptic, non-distillery specific name, it by no means ties this
bottler down to only using liquid from that one distillery.
Proudly Islay-poduced, Port
Askaig has a short but excellent history of previous releases (I’m still rueing
not picking up a bottle of the very first batch of 17 years old which they
release: pure nectar). In fact, I recently purchased a bottle of their now-gone
25 year old as a gift for a friend, such is my faith in the product.
Thus my excitement was tickled when,
late last year a 12 year old version was added to the ranks at the decidedly perfect
strength of 45.8%. Now where have we seen that ABV before...?
Port Askaig Harbour – 12 Years Old – Islay Single Malt – 45.8%
abv – 70cl - £43.95 here
Nose: Vanilla and peat smoke give a bracing, coastal quality to
this warming yet invigorating aroma. Elements of coal dust and dried seaweed
give way to wet soil and heavy petrichor
notes.
Palate: A good balance of salty sea spray, peat smoke and milk
chocolate. This sits well and with a drop of water opens up the lighter vanilla
and citrus tones to become a very easy drinking Islay malt (not in a low PPM
way- this still packs a punch).
Finish: Chamois leather, grapefruit pith and peat smoke.
Overall: A very drinkable Islay malt. As other peaty whiskies move
towards no age statements at this price point, if you want something that does
carry an age and also packs a peaty punch, this could be for you. Much more
Radiohead than On A Friday.
*hummm... debatable.