Ahhh...
we're bombarded with Christmas adverts at this time of year, trying to sell us
everything from shaving products through to the ubiquitous seasonal canapés.
But instead
of choosing just one supermarket and nailing your colours to the mast, these days the
power is in the hands of the (mobile) shopper.
Having
lauded the whisky selection currently available in Waitrose, with 'big name'
brands such as Highland Park and The Balvenie at "prices you'd be made to
ignore" (picture Saul Goodman-esque advert with giant neon stars flying
into view) there are, of course, alternatives... if you're prepared to take a
wee gamble.
Of course,
with the Scotch Whisky Regulations keeping a tight hold on what can (and
cannot) be labelled as ‘Scotch’, it’s not so much of a gamble when buying a
bottle with those six letter on; certainly not as much of a gamble
as buying a ‘meat pie’ at a lower league football ground. Ahhh... the Saturday ritual
of the mystery meat pie. Like Russian roulette with meat and pastry.
So, where can you spend your chips in this casino of flavour, this saloon of Scotch? Well, as you would expect with
Waitrose, you’ll get a brand name. But at Lidl and Aldi you’ll hear the call “Gentlemen,
place your bets!”
These two
cut price supermarkets have, over the past few years, engaged in something of a
price war on Scotch and this Christmas, Aldi have taken the bold step of selling
a 30 Year Old blended whisky under the title Glen Orrin. Well priced at £54.99, how does it taste?
Glen Orrin –
30 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky – 40% abv – 70cl - £54.99 at Aldi
Nose: A hint
of smoke is backed with juicy fruit chewing gum, runny honey and figs. It gives
a well balanced and tempting aroma, over time developing into travel sweets,
milk cholcate and malted milk biscuits.
Palate:
Delicate and easy drinking, it would be nice if this were at a little higher
strength as it is a touch watery on the palate, although this would mean fewer
bottles and a reduced opportunity for the punter to buy (as well as more money
in Her Madge’s pocket from revenue). It is a very easy drink and this has been
well constructed with some good old Scotch whiskies in the mix. Honey and
vanilla would be the key touchstones here.
Finish: More
vanilla, with a touch of dream topping and some smoke.
Overall:
Yes, a very good whisky for the money. I’d wager that you’d be better off with
two bottles of HP12 from Waitrose, however for the money.
At the other
end of the scale, a trip down to Lidl to pick up some of their excellent red
wine to sup over the Christmas period found me purchasing a bottle of their
Abrachan NAS triple matured blended malt Scotch whisky. Matured in ex-Bourbon,
Sherry and Tawny Port pipes, coming in at just £17 it was always going to find
its way into my trolley. So, let’s find out if a NAS at £17 blended malt can
compete with a sub-£55 30 year old blend...
Abrachan –
Triple Matured Blended Malt – 42% abv - 70cl - £17.99 at Lidl
Nose: Well,
this isn’t old. It gives spirit, caramel and some flapjack notes. The port sits
at the front of the aromas while the vanilla is there, if not a little lost,
sandwiched by the sherry on the bottom end. Not the worst blend I’ve ever
nosed- far from it... it is a lower, entry level blended malt but for £17 what
did I expect from the nose? For the money, it does a very good job indeed.
Palate: A
big flavour of malty goodness, this is polar opposite of the smoky beast from
Aldi. The sherry and port flavours take the driving seat, fighting a little but
after time they calm down, to make way for the spice and vanilla from the
bourbon casks. Well balanced? Not quite. Complex? Yes. £17? So far, so good.
Finish:
Spices, cardamom, a hint of Bovril meatiness, but that is no bad thing for a
NAS whisky as it gives it body and counterbalances the spirit notes of the
nose.
Overall: At
£17, you can’t go wrong. Far from the greatest whisky on earth, it certainly
represents value for money. Where else can you pick up a blended malt for £17
these days?
So there you have it. One good whisky at 30 years old and
one excellent whisky for £17 (please consider that statement in conjunction
with its price point). In a league table, I’d still take the brand names at
Waitrose over the gambles at Aldi and Lidl, but if your wallet has less
than £20 in it, then a bottle of the Lidl blend will see you nicely through to
the New Year. But if you can afford it, follow Heston to your local Waitrose.