A Brace Of Wemyss Whisky For The Wintery Weekend

Wow!  Suddenly the weather has decided to draw in, making this weekend the tipping point between coats and hats in the Caskstrength offices. Gone are the lightweight rain macs, replaced with something a little more substantial, woolly and most importantly -  warm.   I also chose the worst weekend to go for a fairly radical shorter haircut too- and boy... can I feel it today, as the frosty South London air nips at my ears.

 Still, no point in grumbling, as there are plenty of ways to keep warm, post Sunday pub roast and pre- walk through the park, as the sun begins to set.   As I left the house this afternoon, I slipped couple of samples into my overcoat with the view that I'd have a dram whilst walking through Dulwich Park. Of late, I've found that drinking outdoors (obviously not cider or the classic outdoor special- Special Brew) sharpens the tasting notes and brings out a number of new and interesting twists to a whisky, which I am keen to explore.

And the samples I chose did not disappoint.  Fresh from the new Wemyss range comes three vintage single casks: a 1982, 1986 and 1996, (which we'll review at a later date) So as the sun started to set on a surprisingly sunny, but extremely crisp Sunday, I whipped out a Glencairn and headed into a little wooded area for an impromptu tasting.

Wemyss - Single Cask Release - 'Sugared Almonds' - Aultmore -  Distilled 1982 - 272 bottles - 46%

Nose: Amidst the falling Sycamore and Maple tree leaves comes a very pleasant, slightly tart green apple note, coupled with vanilla custard, a little turned earth and flaky pastry.  My one regret is that I didn't crack this out in the pub earlier, as it would have paired superbly with the oversized apple and rhubarb crumble I polished off without any hesitation.  Dig deeper and some floral notes emerge, coupled with some drying oak staves and a hint of furniture polish.  It's just on the right side of lively, before starting to show signs of tiredness, which is rather ironically how my daughter, Lois seems to be right now, before bath time. Better get this tasting note finished asap, me thinks.

Palate: Sweet, with a touch of marzipan, but backed with a surprisingly sooty smoke before cascading headlong into stewed pears, orange zest and tart rhubarb, alongside a return of the vanilla rich custard from the nose.  A hint of sherbet rounds out the vibrant flavours before a touch of oak begins to set in.

Finish:  A lingering green apple peel note stays on the palate (a note, which I'm finding increasingly in older bourbon hogshead-matured whiskies, these days) followed by a deft touch of smoke and menthol right at the end.

Overall:  Perhaps not the most appropriate winter warmer, this Aultmore has more summery touches going for it, with a surprising vibrancy for its age.  I suspect it is a fairly well used hogshead, but don't let that put you off -  this is a well balanced whisky and a superb palate cleanser, after a heavy Sunday lunch.

Next up:  the season might be over, but a little taste of 'autumn berries' is in order.

Wemyss -  Single Cask Release -'Autumn Berries' - Blair Athol - Distilled 1986 - 268 bottles - 46%

Nose: A slightly malty note off the bat, leading into stewed raspberries, some spiced wood (cedar, and a touch of cinnamon) lemon zest, blanched almonds and a fresh blackcurrant aroma.

Palate:  Where did that perfume /parma violet note come from?  Hard, but powdery candy (if you're a British child of a certain age, think Swizzels-Matlow sweets- particularly Lovehearts and you're very close). This is followed by fresh vanilla and a little touch of sweetened cream, but once these subside you're straight back into the old fashioned sweets.  It's a note we saw in greater proportions in a superb Master Of Malt Bowmore several years back, but much more restrained.

Finish:  A slight soapy note, with lemon zest and a lingering tart orchard fruit note (greengages and unripe plums)

Overall:  Not as expressive as the 1982 Aultmore, but the surprising parma violet/ Lovehearts note will take anyone back to their childhood after one sip.  This, for some reason feels particularly poignant today, as I stroll around a park with my lil' nipper, like my parents used to do with me, after letting me spend my 10p pocket money on a handful of sweets and a sticky lolly.
Back then, everything felt just right - and this afternoon, it's as near as damn it, just right too.  Wherever you are, hope your weekend was the same.

Distillery Only

I’m really a country boy at heart. Stick me in a Barbour and a pair of Hunters, give me a hip flask full of Scotch and walking cane and I’m as happy as Larry; “wandering o’er vale and hill...” and all that.

But much like Wordsworth himself, I find myself here in London. Occasionally cheery at it’s beauty, it’s wonder, it’s fantasy. At other times with despair and dissolution. This is summed up by Wordsworth in his poem “London, 1802”:

Milton! thou shouldst be living at this hour:
England hath need of thee: she is a fen
Of stagnant waters: altar, sword, and pen,
Fireside, the heroic wealth of hall and bower,
Have forfeited their ancient English dower
Of inward happiness. We are selfish men;
Oh! raise us up, return to us again;
And give us manners, virtue, freedom, power.
Thy soul was like a star, and dwelt apart:
Thou hadst a voice whose sound was like the sea:
Pure as the naked heavens, majestic, free,
So didst thou travel on life's common way,
In cheerful godliness; and yet thy heart
The lowliest duties on herself did lay.

He’s right ya know. Have you ever tried using the tube between 17.30 and 18.30. He must have caught it at its peak; 18.02...

Anyway... enough of the bad jokes. One of the things that makes London (or any major city) amazing is discovering new shops, museums, restaurants, bars... that are totally unique to this city.

I remember fondly the first time I encountered Gordon’s on Villiers Street near Embankment Station. A tiny little wine bar located in the former building where Samule Pepys lived in 1680.

Or when, as a student, I used to take frequent walks along the Southbank where I encountered witty, well composed and though provoking graffiti by some chap called Banksy... I think a few people know who he is now.

But you don’t tend to get this sort of unique discovery in the countryside, do you?

Well, yes you do! I’m not talking about donning a metal detector and discovering some long burried Roman gold. If you happen to find yourself up in the beautiful Scottish countryside, there is unique treasure to be found at most distilleries in the form of Distillery Only Bottlings.

These come in various shapes and sizes: Bruichladdich have their Valinch series, a cask in the shop where you can fill your own bottle. Glenfiddich do a similar thing, but with a cask strength version of their 15 Year Old. Macallan often have a very limited edition which are hand filled on site. Ardbeg can be seen to roll out Single Casks, with the last one a single cask, cask strength version of their 10 Year Old. And they all seem to be at a very reasonable price, too. Quite right, I say. Once you factor in the cost of getting to the distillery itself, it’s great to have a well priced, unique reward waiting for you...

This brings me on to the two whiskies I have in front of me; the Oban and Blair Athol distillery only bottlings. These were introduced earlier this year along with the Lagavulin and Glenkinchie and I was a little surprised to find out that, up to the release of these four, the only other Diageo-own distilleries that provided visitors with a unique bottling were Caol Ila, Talisker and Clynelish.

Those of you who read the blog from this years Islay Festival will know about the Lagavulin, but let’s just run over that one again. It has no age statement on it, but is natural cask strength being bottled at 51.5% ABV and as with the Distillers Edition this has undergone a second (or ‘double’) maturation in Pedro Ximenez-treated American oak casks. We liked it, but then we really like the Distillers Edition and so to have basically a cask strength version of that really pleased us. I did hear a rumour that there were 1,000 cases of this (6,000 bottles) but I don’t know how true this is.

The obvious place to go next is the Oban as this too is a mirror of their Distillers Edition Release. Another NAS, this is bottled at 55.2% and has been double matured in Pedro Montilla Fino-treated American oak casks. Note: I guess, as with the Lagavulin, that maturing in ex-American Oak which has been treated with sherry means that you get a greater surface-area-to-whisky ratio (as opposed to using larger European Oak casks) and therefore faster maturation, hence the No Age Statement... again, just a guess however. The run for this release runs to just under 9,000 bottles apparently.

Oban – Distillery Only Bottling – NAS – 55.2%

Nose: well, of course you get the initial big hit of sherry. But this is a rich, treacle-like sherry infused with nutmeg and orange blossom. Hints of travel sweet and some dandelion and burdoch.

Palate: The strong sherry tones are the loudest notes in this orchestra but as you give it time clear honey bursts through with some delicate elements of light woodsmoke and hint of dry leaves. With water it become a little more curried, with the spices staying put the underpinning element of strong oak going.

Finish: Medium in length, oaky and spicy. Lingers slightly with mint but then its gone leaving a dry, cake-mix element behind.

Overall: This is a solid dram. It kinda needs to be at caskstrength for all the richness to come out and therefore you can’t take too much of it.

Onward to the Blair Athol. Not a distillery we are overly familiar with, but we know what we’re looking for. I’m sure this will ring a few Bells... This bottling is much more straightforward being matured in first fill european oak sherry casks and bottled at cask strength of 55.8%. Again, this carries no age statement.

Blair Athol – Distillery Only Bottling – 55.8%

Nose: The classic BA nose of ginger but with some red fruits backing it up in the distance and a touch of lemon grass. A really lovely and subtle nose.

Palate: A really soft and chewy mouthfeel with some coffee notes, walnuts, a hint of thick, dark leather and some peppery-spices. All underpinned with the ginger from the nose. With water it become a whole lot more rounded and smoother without losing any of the personality from before. Can really take water well.

Finish: long and lingering, warm and soothing. Becoming slightly bitter towards the end, like a good real ale.

Overall: I really wasn’t expecting too much of this dram, but it is excellent. I’m not sure of the RRP, but if it falls sub-£60 then it’s well worth a shot. Tasty.

More Managers Choices to make....

A new year begins and with it, the next batch Managers' Choice whiskies are released.

Monday 11th will see another flight of this vast collection of exclusive bottlings hit the shelves and no doubt, a few piggy banks will be smashed open in readiness. We got the opportunity in December to try a few of them, including a sublime Talisker (which you can read notes of here, as well as the Glen Spey and Inchgower ) and a highly commendable Dalwhinnie (below).

Here's the skinny on the next releases - no prices, but expect them to be around the similar mark to the last flight:

Blair Athol: 54.7% - 570 bottles

Cask: 5989- Bodega Sherry Cask

Filled: 10/11/95 Bottled: 18/02/09

Cragganmore: 59.7% - 564 bottles

Cask: 2398 - Bodega Sherry Cask

Filled: 02/05/97 Bottled: 14/5/09

Dalwhinnie: 51% - 270 bottles

Cask: 431 - Refill American Oak

Filled: 05/02/92 Bottled: 10/03/09

Dufftown: 59.5% - 282 bottles

Cask: 8153 - Rejuvenated American Oak

Filled: 12/05/96 Bottled: 05/03/09

Glen Spey: 52% 276 - bottles

Cask: 240 - New American Oak

Filled: 18/01/96 Bottled: 02/03/09

Strathmill: 60.1 % - 300 bottles

Cask: 5503 - New American Oak

Filled: 30/12/94 Bottled: 06/03/09

Talisker: 58.6% - 582 bottles

Cask: 7147 - Bodega Sherry Cask

Filled: 07/12/94 Bottled: 02/03/09

Hopefully we'll be able to bring you tasting notes for most of these soon, in the meantime- here's what we thought of the Dalwhinnie and the Blair Athol bottlings:

Nose: Vanilla, candlewax, (similar to a Clynelish) a hint of candyfloss and some light lavender notes.

Palate: A hint of leather, malt and cereal flavours, with a slight lemon sharpness, leading into some very nice soft and fruity bourbon notes.

Finish: Lightweight and fairly short.

Overall: Not a million miles from the classic Dalwhinnie 15yo, but with a slightly lighter touch. Roll on summertime.

Nose: Initially, a big hit of vanilla, followed by some aromatic aniseed, banana, lemon meringue pie and some freshly sliced water melon.

Palate: Cereal notes with a slightly beery wash flavour, leading into a surprisingly cherry/ peach sherbet sweetness. A pleasing thick mouthfeel rounds off an interesting, if slightly off-kilter dram.

Finish: Drying, with some licorice/malty after tones.

Overall: Certainly not as interesting as the Talisker of the Dalwhinnie, but pleasing in its own way.

We're still hanging on for the release of the Lagavulin- Come on Diageo! get round to it at once!!