Timeless (and Ageless) Japanese Delights: Suntory's new Distiller's Reserve Yamazaki & Hakushu

Wow, what an extraordinary month it has been for whisky chatter so far. Any more of this excitement and we'll have to take a short nap somewhere quiet and friendly -  Rum or Armagnac perhaps.  ;-) 

First up and a large contingent of the online whisky community got its knickers unnecessarily in a twist about the unknown future of Scotch whisky and the terrifying looming spectre of No Age Statement whiskies. We'd like to issue a zen-like calming call to all those bloggers concerned: Take a deep breath and pour yourself something nice (maybe even N.A.S?)...whisky isn't broken quite just yet - we promise. 

Right on cue, Diageo, (seemingly the target for much abuse this past week especially) unveil a new range of Mortlach expressions AND a monumental stepping stone in the history of Brora. Two fairly hefty (and polarising) statements in the malt whisky world, by any stretch of the imagination. Whilst we'll reserve our judgment call on the 'Mortlach Scenario' (which sounds very much like a new Dan Brown novel) until we have actually tasted the liquid (makes sense, does it not chaps?) we can at least be thankful that there is plenty of excellent whisky left out there and the prospect of the industry moving forward yet again in the eyes of the every day consumer looks extremely positive in our view. 

Then the largest players in the world of Japanese whisky Suntory announces two brand new No Age Statement expressions, which will radically change the landscape of the international appetite for its whisky. 

It seems, as if No Age Statement-itus is catching folks... Better run and take cover. 

Stirred 13-and-a-half times?
A classic Highball

Suntory's latest brace of releases focus on the specific styles of their two malt distilleries, Yamazaki and Hakushu. The former, widely regarded as the very first Japanese whisky distillery celebrated its 90th anniversary last year and has long been a firm favourite here, for pushing the boundaries of flavour and versatility in whisky. 

In the 12 year old expression of both distilleries, Suntory have defined, in our opinion, (with the addition of Nikka's From The Barrel) the delicate simplicity of the Mizuwari (or Highball with sparkling water) -  a drink so perfect in its construction that lengthy tomes have been written about the correct number of times one should stir the mixture of whisky, ice and supremely clear spring water - Suntory reckoning that 13-and-a-half times is the pinnacle of excellence.  

So why bring out two new whiskies- The Distiller's Reserve range - especially lacking in age statements?

Well, like every whisk(e)y company in the world, times are a'changing and global demand for aged Japanese stock has meant that there is precious little out there - especially in Europe. With such an unprecedented focus on world whisky, Suntory have been smart enough to create two distillery defining expressions that not only deliver big on flavour, but also won't cost the earth, given the inevitable price rises of the 10, 12 and 18 year old expressions.  

Suntory Chef Blender Shinji Fukuyo pointing
out his predecessors  

At a launch last week in central London, both these new Japanese expressions were formally unveiled, after a highly successful introduction in the domestic market. We were lucky enough to join Shinji Fukuyo, Chief Blender and General Manager of the Whisky Blending and Planning Department at Suntory; the man responsible for creating the new range. Introducing the whiskies, Mr Fukuyo revealed that one of his daily responsibilities is to sample 300 different casks from the Suntory inventory, so with so many parameters to play with, putting these whiskies together was never going to be easy.  

And it wasn't.  

'After my first experiment, I was scalded by my boss,' he jokingly revealed, as we began to delve into the core component parts of both whiskies. But without a doubt, his second attempts have squarely hit the mark, both whiskies delivering what could accurately be described as the core flavours of each distillery: Yamazaki, known for its rich, well-rounded red berry fruit and lighter citrus zest - and Hakushu dialling in a little smokiness alongside a malty core, surrounded by soft orchard fruit and a little spice.   

Cask samples

Both expressions are formed by careful use of different cask styles, which Suntory have explored individually in their own dedicated bottlings. In the Yamazaki Distiller's Reserve, we were treated to cask samples from a Mizunara oak cask (a strain of oak unique to the Far East) which delivers a totally original and highly flavoursome spice note, reminiscent of Japanese incense. Alongside this, a sample from a cask of sherry matured whisky aged for around 20 years, complete with its big, bold and robust earthy dryness.  But an interesting additional Bordeaux wine cask finished whisky hinted at where much of the well-rounded red berry fruits and additional dryness in the new expression comes from.  

The Hakushu Distiller's Reserve comes from a totally different flavour profile altogether. Samples of lightly peated and heavily peated Hakushu were tried alongside a frankly astonishing sample of first fill bourbon cask Hakushu - if you happen to chance on a bottle of this style of Hakushu (there are a few floating around at good indie retailers) grab it - the tropical fruit notes will change your perception of whisky making forever.  (in fact see our review of this expression here)

So individually, each cask style delivers a distinct 'colour' to the overall picture. But what are they like when combined together?  'Stupendous'  is one word we would happily use.  

Yamazaki -  Distiller's Reserve -  43%  - No Age Statement - RRP under £40

Nose: A lightness hits first, with subtle vanilla and lemon zest, leading into fresh strawberries, a little milk chocolate and some golden syrup. There is also an emerging spicy/incense note, which develops with the addition of water.

Palate: The fruit becomes more intense, with fresh fleshy white peaches, a hint of raspberry, a dryer oaky note, vanilla essence and a twist of lemon zest.  It is vibrant and youthful, but still full of fabulous character.

Finish: Sweeter fruity notes linger, with an overall tannic background.

Overall: A superb start. This encompasses all the hallmarks of the 12 year old Yamazaki, but leads it into a new fresher styling.  Very clever whisky making and a steal for the retail price.

Hakushu Distiller's Reserve -  43% - No Age Statement - RRP under £40

Nose: Wonderfully fruity with soft pears, a touch of green apple peel, fresh mint, vanilla, a slight damp mossiness and a waft of very fragrant smoke -  enough to drive the heart of the distillery character but not too in-your-face for those who find peat too much of a distraction.

Palate: A lighter fruit develops first with fresh honeydew melon, sweet vanilla, the floral smoke mixing with a charred herbaceous note. With water, it really develops, the fruit starting to integrate wonderfully with the smoke.

Finish: The smoke is left on the palate, with a subtle fruitiness and a hint of oak.

Overall: Another fantastically balanced whisky. Hard to pick out a favourite here, as both whiskies deliver so much character within their 'house' styles.  We would recommend both of these side-by-side - especially if you're planning to have a go at your very own entry into the Mizuwari/Highball phenomenon!

Make no mistake: Suntory have undoubtedly released two game-changing No Age Statement whiskies here.

Anyone still left ranting, please form an orderly queue.

Expect to see both these whiskies at either Master Of Malt or Whisky Exchange soon.  

 

Bowmore's New Batch

'Small Batch' is quite a hot topic at the moment.  Numerous bourbon producers retail a small batch whiskey, each one purportedly demonstrating a differing characteristic to the company's regular releases- Four Roses, being a noted - and highly enjoyable example.

But what does 'small batch' mean exactly?  The problem I have with this phrase is that it is relatively meaningless, given that there are no actual parameters surrounding what size a small batch could be.  If you're the Balcones distillery in the USA, held together with tin foil, passion and ingenuity, a small batch is likely to be pretty much what it says on the bottle - very small - and limited to boot.  But if you're Beam Global, a small batch could be 20,000 cases- so long as it isn't getting into the realms of what a regular release amounts to.

The same thing applies to single malts with small batch written on the label.  Take Kilchoman for instance. Should this tiny distillery release a small batch of something, one would expect it to be only a few hundred bottles, given the size of the operation.  But where does that leave Morrison Bowmore?

This month, Bowmore release a small batch single malt of their own.  Matured in first & second fill bourbon casks, the whisky purports to be the distillery's lightest and delicate expression to date, bottled with no age statement and at 40%.  But the question still remains about what exactly a small batch of Bowmore is??  According to the press release this whisky is 'launched in response to consumer demand for special and small batch whiskies...a genuine release of limited volume, vatted in restricted quantities...'

Ok. But that still doesn't tell me a great deal.

Does any of this really matter?  Does anyone actually care?? Shall we just have a dram and stop wondering???

Bowmore - Small Batch Reserve - 40%

Nose: Perfumed fruit gums, liquorice, lemon zest and a faint waft of smoke jump straight our of the glass- no hanging around here.  Given a bit of a nose around, some red berry fruits, strawberry sherbet, black pepper and Swarfega (that terrifyingly 'green' hand cleanser) start to emerge. It's intriguingly light, yet very pleasant indeed. Outdoors with a summer BBQ would be an ideal location for this dram.

Palate: Wow, the palate is super light on the first sip, then comes the smoke (sweet, creamy woodsmoke) followed by more of the red berry fruits, some perfumed pomander/make up notes and sweet vanilla.  It's like kissing someone who's wearing bright red lipstick, after they've finished a menthol cigarette -  and I don't mean that to sound derogatory. 

Finish:  Lingering notes of the fruit and vanilla with the last gentle notes of the smoke. 

Overall:  Light, summery and with all the hallmarks of Bowmore, just paired back.  It will make a subtle introduction to the distillery for a newcomer, or those fans of Bowmore who prefer a more gentle touch. However, one question I have is where this leaves the regular 12 year old? There are several similarities between this small batch release and the 12yo (both bottled at 40% and both lighter expressions of Bowmore) but this expression retails at around £10 more, despite not having an age statement on it.   

Batch size eh... Just how long is this particular whisky-flavoured piece of string?  

As Good As Gold?

Recently news reached us concerning a new Johnnie Walker expression darting out of the starting blocks very soon, coupled with the launch of a newly formulated Johnnie Walker Gold Label. Question is, were we excited?  The answer was of course a resounding yes.

No matter what people may have to say about this universally available brand, it has changed the landscape of blended whisky forever and in new emerging markets JW is currently blazing a trail as an upwardly mobile drink for new palates to enjoy. Johnnie Walker Gold Label (the 18yo) has pretty much been my house blend since I chanced upon a bottle about six years ago and despite its age, is a superbly versatile whisky, which works in a variety of ways - from sipping neat from a nosing glass to  enjoying with a block of ice in front of the TV.

 Johnnie Walker's growing ambitions

When I heard that the 18yo edition of Gold Label was being phased out, my heart skipped a beat. Surely some mistake I thought, but the writing was on the wall for this undoubtedly premium blend and I was hugely disappointed at its loss.

However, the good news is that it hasn't gone completely, just had a facelift - and grown a twin brother made out of an even more precious metal - Platinum.

JW Master Blender Jim Beveridge has reformulated Gold Label, removing the age statement in the process - dropping its price down to around £40. Good news indeed. But what's wrong with it being 18 years old, I hear you say? Well, in Jim's own words: "age statements can be quite constraining - with a no age statement whisky it gives me a much wider scope to work with."

The newly formulated Gold Label Reserve has, according to Jim, around 20-25 different malts and 2-3 grain whiskies in its creation and took about 4 months to develop. The 'Reserve' aspect apparently refers to a proportion of casks earmarked for greatness, held in Diageo's vast warehousing complexes.

The question is whether the new Gold Label will maintain the original's zeal- and appeal.  Or, will it take it to somewhere altogether different?

Johnnie Walker - Gold Label Reserve - Blended Whisky - 40%

Nose: Fudge notes, drying sherry, dried prunes, vanilla and heather honey. Water brings notes of classic light Walker smoke and candied fruit. So far, so good.

Palate: Initially very light, with vanilla and waxy honey (the influence of Clynelish is still really apparent.) Given time, the blend really begins to open up with a distinct smokiness and a slightly thin grainy note. With water, the grains show themselves a little more, followed by sliced apple and more of the Clynelish waxiness.

Finish: Lingering smokiness and a touch of dried fruit.

Overall: Ok, let's get this straight: it isn't the same blend as the 18 year old Centenary Edition. Part of me feels like this is less of a whisky, but then again, I feel i'd drink this version of Gold Label in a different way. It screams out for slamming a bottle in the freezer, making high-balls, mixing with ginger wine and everything in between. It won't happen overnight, but i'm going to re-visit this as a whisky to crack out at parties, rather than just hoarding for my greedy ol' self.  

Next up- Johnnie Walker Platinum 18 years old. I have been wanting to try this since discovering Diageo were developing it some months back. Looking at the pricing structure of the JW blends, there always seemed to be a bit of a hole in the range, especially given the fact that Gold Label was approximately a third of the price of Blue Label. I had assumed that this would be priced accordingly, at around the £80 mark, but was surprised to hear it will come in at £69. The cynic would say that it has taken the place of old Gold label 18yo, with an additional £15 price tag, but as we have seen with the Gold Label Reserve, appearances can be deceiving. 

Johnnie Walker - Platinum - Blended Whisky - 18 years old - 40% 

Nose: Streuth. This is really good, straight off the bat. Rich spiced notes, mix with plum pudding, stewed rhubarb, cherry compote and aromatic cedar wood smoke. Superbly balanced. The vanillas start to creep in on the fruit given a little time in the glass and notes of orange oil grab your attention.  

Palate: Very oily and thick on the palate. heavily fragranced, with baked oranges, subtle notes of caramel shortcake, orange sherbet and gentle smoke. With water, cereal notes develop, with cherry jam and fudge. 

Finish: More stewed fruit, with a lingering note of the the wonderfully aromatic smoke. 

Overall:  There's no flannel here -  this really is a masterpiece of blending. The balance between rich malts (apparently 30-odd), plus several differently aged grains is exquisite. This doesn't really need water as such, but a small splash helps lift the aromas to new heights.  

Despite feeling like I'll really miss the 18yo Gold Label, with the Platinum becoming available I won't feel too upset for long. Yes, it's more expensive, but like the new Gold (which is considerably cheaper), it's a totally different - but in many ways, a far superior blend. The Gold Reserve is now a more affordable 'upsell' (god, I hate that phrase) to Black Label and will work wonderfully in convivial situations - but if you are a fan of the 18yo version- don't expect this to be the same whisky- it isn't. Stock up now before it disappears from the shelves. Then when it's run out, you have a choice to make -  thankfully, there is likely to be a happy ending whatever you decide to buy next. 

Smokin'

The world of whisky and cigars is an often maligned subject. Do the two really work together? Sometimes we're inclined to think not. A visit to Fox's of St James recently proved to be a mixed bag for us - three superb cigars: Bolivar's superbly rich Belicosos Finos, a Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure Especial and a moreish Montecristo Edmundo.

We'd chosen some interesting whiskies to go with our sticks: Ardbeg Uigeadail, Highland Park 21yo and a single cask Glenfarclas, providing a meaty mix of wood and sherry influence.

But despite the wealth of wares on offer, we just couldn't get a handle on any of the pairings - they were either too weighted in favour of the cigar, the whiskies losing all their appeal, or the melange of flavour just overwhelmed the palate totally. In the end, we just wanted a milkshake and a sit down.

But not being quitters we've vowed to keep up the research into the ultimate pairing - and by jingo, we're pretty sure that courtesy of Partagas and The Dalmore, we've found an intriguing marriage, based on compliments, subtlety and spice. Surely, the recipe for any great partnership?

Mr Richard Paterson, man of refined vices galore, is no stranger to the gentle art of fine smoking. One of his best creations, The Dalmore Cigar Malt was perfectly balanced to allow even the most subtle wafts of a lightweight El Rey Del Mundo to tantalise the palate, one giving the other enough room to breathe (excuse the pun). When it was discontinued in 2007, a few people undoubtedly planned to march on Whyte & Mackay's Health & Safety Commandants (sorry, lawyers) burning stakes in clenched fist, hell bent on retribution for the whisky's untimely withdrawal.

Or perhaps a few strongly worded letters were sent. Either way, it was a huge result when the whisky was rightly reinstated earlier this month, in a slightly reformulated state. The new The Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve will be available from February bottled at 44% and priced at £70 and we were eager to test it out - with the daddy of the Partagas range, the Serie E 2.

With a full bodied blast of toasted chocolate and spiced notes, it is a formidable test for many a decent dram...

The Dalmore - Cigar Malt Reserve - 44%

Nose: Toasted orange zest, leather, earthy/mushroomy undertones and dark chocolate shavings. given a little time, a touch of vanilla (reminiscent of pipe tobacco) comes to the fore.

Palate: A rich mouth feel, with a little rubberiness, dark sherry, dark sugar- in fact, lots of dark tasting things- treacle, cocoa and toasted malt round out the darkness. Given a few minutes and the first mouthful of Partagas, the flavour is undaunted by the smoke - citrus notes and woody spice also develop, but the undercurrent of treacle, sherry and chocolate blend well with the top notes of the cigar.

Finish: the smoke clearly takes the lingering lead, but the rich fruity notes of the whisky return, alongside a pronounced malt extract note. Everything is there, but nothing pokes out too provocatively.

Overall: There is enough light and shade to this whisky to handle a big beast of a cigar. We have yet to try it against a mild smoke, but it is very pleasing when the combination of flavours on the palate doesn't pull in different directions. Here, the experience is enjoyable and complimentary.

Richard, a victory for you and two fingers to the non smoking pedants.

The Ultimate Coming Of Age

1901. A year of unprecedented change across the globe. Queen Victoria passes away, giving rise to the beginning of the Edwardian era. The Commonwealth of Australia was formed. The world, although yet to realise the significance, was joined by Clark Gable, Gary Cooper and master of the honeyed vocal chords and Jazz horn himself, Louis Armstrong.

It was also the year that Janet Sheed Gordon was born. Daughter to Isabella Grant and Charles Gordon and heir to the William Grant & Sons whisky business. for the past incredible 110 years, Janet has lived close to the Glenfiddich distillery, keeping a watchful eye over the proceedings, the comings and goings and ultimately, the liquid that the distillery has been turning out and maturing so successfully for nigh on the past eight decades.

Janet Sheed Gordon (now Roberts) graduating in Law in 1924

The photo below was taken in 1969, at the opening of the Glenfiddich visitor centre. Janet would have been 68 - and looking all the better for it!

As the oldest living woman in Scotland, it's hard to imagine how the world must seem through Janet Roberts' eyes now. So much change, revolution & technology; the birth of the jet age, space travel, nuclear energy, the electric guitar, the internet, the microwave oven and everything else we take for granted these days. All of this has been invented or pioneered during her incredible life.

It seems fitting then, for Glenfiddich to honour such achievement the only way they know best; a bottling of one of their oldest whiskies, from one of the best casks in the distillery's inventory.

What a monumental project this has become. Just 11 bottles of the Janet Sheed Roberts Reserve are ever going to see the light of day. The packaging is an accurate representation of the whisky's namesake, from the travel case box, right down to the aqua marine colour used on the capsule, reported to be Janet's favourite colour.

Comes with a miniature too...

The liquid inside each hand-blown bottle is no less special.

The sherry butt used was filled on Hogmanay 1955. It is what Malt Master, Brian Kinsman describes as a 'plain cask' in that it hasn't had a huge impact on the maturation of the whisky in a short space of time. What this cask has done is allowed the whisky to mature perfectly over a long period of time - 55 years to be precise, which we think rather succinctly sums up a life most definitely well lived.

The first bottle will be auctioned at Bonham's Edinburgh Auction on the 14th December, with all proceeds going to WaterAid, a charity which Glenfiddich have supported in the past.

Further bottles will be available throughout 2012 in key whisky markets such as the US, Taiwan Russia, China and India.

So it is with a deep intake of breath that we raise a dram up to our lips to review.

Crikey. Here goes...

Glenfiddich - Janet Sheed Roberts Reserve - 55 years old - Cask 4222 - filled December 1955- 44.4% - 11 bottles

Nose: An immediate explosion of soft fruits, parma violets, peach skins, floral wax notes, wonderfully perfumed clean linen and brandy snaps. Given time in the glass (hell, this whisky can take all the time it wants) a more herbaceous/vermouth note develops, with some lightly brewed hibiscus tea and finally some freshly picked strawberries and a faint waft of peat smoke. Truly magnificent; open, delicate and enveloping. I carried on just nosing this long after the tasting and changed direction several times as the night wore on.

Palate: A light note of soft aromatic peat, grapefruit, parma violets and lemon zest. Light and fruity, but tethered by a backbone of oak. However nothing dry or oaky dominates, the fruity notes keep developing on the palate, with orange flower water, some light vanilla and back to the soft peat again.

Finish: Peerless balance for a whisky this age. Lingering light fruit, with a slightly drying oak note on the death. The peat takes a backseat, but is still there in spirit, along with the vanilla and zest.

Overall: An extraordinary life such as Janet Sheed Roberts' could only be celebrated with a truly extraordinary whisky and without question, this hits the mark on every level. Hats off to Glenfiddich for maintaining this sensational cask for the past five and a half decades.

So there we have it; inspirational whisky making and perhaps more importantly, an incredibly inspirational woman.